The Practical Dancer

Padding a belt

2011-11-12T08:05:00.001-05:00

I know -- you ware wondering why on earth I have a pictureof a stack of panty liners.

I am about to reveal one of the secrets of the belly dancinguniverse. If you have had a child,like to eat, or are past “a certain age,” you have a “goddess belly.” A belly that has . . . shape. Curve. Dimension. And, as aresult, your belt sits under that cute little belly curve that you may notthink is so cute, after all. Youhave that thing that is jokingly diagnosed as “Dunlap’s disease” where thebelly done lapped over the belt.

Hence, panty liners to the rescue!

A good friend taught me this method. What you need to do is to thicken thebelt where it falls under the belly. This brings the visible edge of the belt forward so that the bellysticks out less, making the belly appear a bit nicer. To do it, take out a handful of panty liners near a surfacelike a table or counter. Startwith two as your base layer, but do not peel the backing off, yet. Arrange them so that the narrow endsare touching, as if you needed a double-long liner. Now, take one pad, peel the backing off, and lay it on topso that it covers the area where the bottom two meet. Keep building up in a 2-1-2 pattern, until the entirety isthe thickness you need. I needabout 5/8 inch, or 9 pads total. To check thickness, put on the belt that you are working with and slidein the liner stack (centered under the belly button), look in the mirror, andsee if it is enough. When you arehappy, open up the lining of your belt where you want to place the pads andTHEN you can peel the backing off of the base liners to expose the stickypart. Use that sticky part to helpposition the liners, then sew the belt lining fabric back into place. Replace pads when your body shapechanges or you replace the lining. And hey, they do help absorb sweat, protecting your hard sewing work!

AND, this method can be used for belts you purchase, too!

(PS: I have also cut them up to use as bra padding, too!)

Here is a view of the finished belt, showing you thethickness added by padding.

Using Draping Fluid to stiffen a Dance Bra

2011-11-12T07:25:00.001-05:00

The (is it infamous yet?) “300 Eyed Chemical Monster Bedlah”needed some stiffness to work. Let’ssee if this makes sense: I wasgoing to cover the entire thing in wiggly eyes. If the fabric flexed too much, they would pop off (havingthis issue with the belt after 1 wearing, folks!) and the more rigid thesurface, the more my movement would transfer to the eyes. Draping fluid was in order.

I can’t remember if I first heard about draping fluid fromOzma or from bellydanceforums.net; but, it is basically a very thick glue usedto stiffen fabric, as when making bows, little lace hats for dolls, or thoselovely little snowflake Christmas ornaments my Mom made when I was a kid. The directions say to wear gloves, andyou should. I have a box of thesimple (almost plastic wrap like) food service gloves I keep on hand for messyprojects, and I highly recommend having a box on hand. The instructions also say to put thefluid in a bowl to work it into the item; but, I have watched enough Good Eatsepisodes to know that a zip bag will come in handy. The directions go in to say to cover your mold in plasticwrap, which you REALLY should do, and I also completely lined the baking panthat housed this mess in plastic wrap as well.

The directions do advise that you can thin up to (25, 50%?)– which I may well do next time; and, they say to work it in thoroughly intothe fabric. Bag and gloves didthis nicely. Put garment and fluidin a zip bag. Prep molding surfacewith plastic wrap. While wearinggloves, massage fluid in. Massagesome more. And more. Carefully open bag (with gloves on),remove item, and shape onto mold. Pull gloves off by turning them inside out, toss in messy plastic bag,dispose of mess, and thank yourself for wearing gloves. Resist temptation to rearrangemold. Wait until dry, about 24hours.

The bra came out so hard, you can literally knock on it withyour knuckles. For the first timein my life, I have KNOCKERS! Literally!

Granted, I could also see where the fluid didn’t work allthe way in, giving the fabric an odd translucency. IF you go full strength when you use this stuff, do considerleaving an edge without the stuff where you will sew. Because sewing on dried draping fluid is about like sewingDRYWALL. I had to use a rubber quilter’sgrip to get the needle through, and had to push the needle against the table,kitchen counter, or any other hard surface (except my head) to sew it.

Seemed like a good idea at the time!

The Fringe Fence!

2011-10-29T22:15:00.000-04:00

Problem: You need to sew fringe onto something; or, worse yet, you need to sew something onto fringe. You know the thread is going to tangle into the fringe, making knots Houdini couldn't escape from and you are going to wind up hurling the costume across the room in disgust.

Fret no more: raid your recycling bin, cut two rectangles of cardboard slightly larger than the clump of fringe you are working with, and grab two binder clips from your office. Trap the fringe in between the cardboard and hold in place with the binder clips. Cuss less, sew more!

"The Practical Manifesto"

2011-09-11T21:27:00.001-04:00

In my "day job," I work in software delivery -- which you would think has very little to do with costume design. Except, the wonderful place where I work has allowed me to learn about the Agile method of delivering work -- a methodology that can help one take any major project and deliver it in value - oriented chunks.

What on earth does this have to do with Costume Stuff?

Everything!

Many of us have a love / hate relationship with trying to make our own costumes. We struggle to take big, daunting projects and finish them. Piles of fabric linger as "future costumes" that never get worn and loved. And, attempting projects beyond our skill causes frustration and failure.

Agile shows us that the key to success is to focus on what is really valuable to the customer (in this case, you). By recognizing that, you can make the call on where to invest your time when costuming, and how to break the work down into small, independently useable pieces that you, as the customer of your own work, deem to be the most valuable.

Thus, with apologies to those who crafted the Agile Manifesto, I would like to share my own "Practical Manifesto":

My highest priority is to create beautiful, functional costuming where each piece delivers value to my wardrobe.

It is perfectly acceptable to shift design in during construction in order to make the costume more useful.

Costume creations should be constructed in components that can be scaled to the skills and time that I have to work on them and so that I can use them quickly.

I am both costume designer and costume wearer; I shall never forget that both my creative and practical needs must both be met.

I need to be motivated to finish a costume; my costume must have a purpose -- an occasion to use it -- in order to make me finish it.

The most effective way to make the costume beautiful is to try it on frequently in the process of making it.

Wearable costumes are how I measure my success.

I need to enjoy the process of creating costumes. In order to enjoy it, I must set reasonable projects that I am confident I can deliver without growing bored or frustrated.

As I create, I will grow my skills in creation, getting better at costume creation as I practice. (Just as with my dance!)

The simplest costume pieces are the most versatile and long-lived in my wardrobe.

My projects should be based on my skills and strengths: I invest time into what I can create and money (for others to make) that which I cannot on my own. It is OK to “outsource” some costume pieces.

I shall regularly revisit my old creations and see what I would do differently in the future as I create new ones (or, recreate old ones).

I'll discuss some of these concepts in future posts, giving you some ideas on how to make the call on getting the most value out of the time and money you invest in your wardrobe.

Tip for the passenger seat #1

2011-08-29T10:11:00.001-04:00

Tip for the passenger seat (or, what to do when riding along on a road trip): If you want to work on a beading project in the car, put double stick tape along the inside of a small container to hold beads. Put a small amount of beads in there at a time. Beads won't slop around and get all over the car, and you can pick up exactly what you need without risk. You will refill more often, but you will cuss less!

Make your own cane!

2011-07-23T08:42:00.002-04:00

(adapted from comments originally made on bellydanceforums.net)

Go to your local home improvement store and head to the dowel section(in the Lumber section) or to a craft store. Look at the 36" long (unless you are REALLY tall) and 1/2" diameter dowels and get one that is PERFECTLY STRAIGHT. You will have to go through the bin, but your investment of time will be rewarded. Cane can be used as is for practice, or embellished . . .

Tape Method:
If you don’t want to paint, stay in the home improvement store and either head to the electrical section for some colored tape or the heating section (where they sell ductwork) and get the silver, shiny tape they use to seal ducts. Wrap the cane in your tape of choice.

Painted method:
Now, if you are crafty, stop by the paint department and pick up 1 can of spray primer, one can of paint in the color of your choice (metallic paints are nice). On the way home, swing by a craft store and get some puff paint in complimentary colors. (Ok, the dollars are adding up to $15 to $20, but you could use the various paints when you invite your friends over for a cane painting party.) Then, stop by your favorite beverage emporium and get two six packs of a beverage AS LONG as it comes in a cardboard carrying unit (glass bottles), the kind with the little cutout that acts as a handle. When you get home, remove the beverages to the fridge and save the cardboard. (Caution: consumption of certain beverages in high quantities may impact the quality of the forthcoming paint job.) Now, when the outside temperature is suitable for painting, take the cardboard carriers outside with some newspaper, your dowel, and the spray paint. Set up the two carriers on the newspaper and slide the dowel through the cutouts so they act as a stand. (You may need to weight the beverage carriers with rocks or empty bottles.) Gingerly spray on the primer, let dry, rotate, and repeat. Same with the color of your choice (spray, dry, rotate, repeat). When dry, bring the whole mess inside to the kitchen counter and dribble on the puff paint on the cane in a pattern. There is no right or wrong, here.

You will now have a custom cane that can match your favorite outfit(s) and that is VERY practical. And, the puff paint ensures a good grip when performing. I have found that using a "dot" pattern to apply the paint helps to balance the cane on your head because the “dots” make little points that grab hair nicely.

The "scrap" book

2011-07-20T19:59:00.004-04:00

I . . . am a fabric hoarder. There, I said it. I justify it by saying that I "need a full palette in order to exercise my artistic vision;" but, really, I hoard fabric. Because I one day hope to do something with it, I had to come up with a Simple, EASY way to keep it all straight.

Take:
1 binder notebook
several pieces of paper
clear protective sheet covers (with holes to fit your binder)
scissors
a stapler
a few minutes of your day
and a pile of fabric

Pick up the fabric, one piece at a time. Estimate the yardage (I use the nose-to-fingertips method of estimation), then lop off one corner of the fabric, staple it to the paper, and use the pen to note how much yardage you have. Fill up the paper with corners of fabric, then slide it into the page protector, and into the binder. Gradually work your way through the pile.

Finished a project? Move the corner to a new page -- one for skirts, one for bedlahs, one for veils -- you get the idea. Take this with you to workshops where there will be vending or when you go shopping for material. These few minutes of organization will help you make MUCH better decisions about what to buy.

And, all of your friends will marvel at your organization!

Draped Coin Bra Cover 101

2011-07-17T09:40:00.006-04:00

How fast can I type this? I have only been meaning to give you this post FOR A YEAR!!!

sigh. (lot of that today)

Say you need a coin bra costume for a show, like I did about this time last year. And, say, you are frugal and willing to sew. Well, maybe more on the frugal side. Here is what you do:

1. Make a basic black bra base, extra sturdy. Cups that have a point where the strap meets the cup are best for drapes. Rounded cups with no points will require that you do surgery on the drape. You will need a bra base that can support the weight of the coins, which will pull heavily down the cups. This is no time for halters, ladies! You need think, strong straps here that will distribute the weight -- crossed in the back are best.

2. Take the base to a reputable dealer and look for a "coin bra drape." These will look oddly triangular when hanging, and you will need to arrange them over the base to ensure a good fit. These are NOT one size fits all. Take some binder clips, safety pins, and an extra set of hands to help you hold up the drape and see how it fits over THAT base, not the everyday bra you are wearing. The drape needs to be able to cover the cups, flex to hang so that the top edge follows the edges of the cups, and still cover all the way down to the bottom edge of the bra. You can make a *slightly* big drape fit perfectly, but you cannot stretch one that is too small.

3. Buy the matching coin belt at the same time. Trust me, you will regret it if you don't. You will never be able to match it later!

4. At home, make sure you have at least 100 safety pins. Go buy more if you don't. And, pliers.

5. Before you begin draping, look over your drape carefully. Use the pliers to tighten any loose jump rings. You will use the pliers again later in the fitting.

6. Place the bra base on a work surface, cups up and facing you. Use the safety pins to secure the drape to the upper edge, starting at the upper triangular point of the drape cup, pinning that to the upper point of the bra base. Do both points first. Work your way down each side to the center where the cups meet, one pin on each side at one time. You will have to finagle it a little to get it even.

Front View:

Back View (ignore safety pins under the armpits for now:

7. Try it on. Adjust drape. Repeat until happy.
8. Start pinning the top of the drape along the cups under the armpits.
9. Try it on. Adjust drape. Repeat until happy. This part took the longest for me, as the drape may need surgery (told you about the pliers!) to fit properly. And, at some point you will need to use the pliers to cut the chains off of the drape. You can decide whether to run some chain along the straps or just keep it bare. Your bra, your aesthetic. I have draped them both ways; and, since I am a cabaret dancer, I hate a nekkid bra back. So, I either have to drape the chains, too, or wear a vest over it.
10. Commence sewing! This is easy, really. If you have draped and pinned properly, you only need to sew to attach the top of the drape to the top of the base. Find the "chain" that runs along the top of the drape, making the shape of the drape. You will sew this to the base in strong stitches that have some give to them -- you want the coins to move! Use HEAVY thread (upholstery, button hole) to make a stitch that attaches the drape chain to the upper edge of the cup. This is the only sewing your will do, running a seam that starts at the points of the bra cup where it meets the strap to the center. Repeat on the other side, then along the cups under the armpits. When sewing, only do one or two stitches at a time and knot in between (coins cut thread). Stop and fit, adjust as needed. At the risk of repeating myself, DO NOT sew the drape completely to the bra, do not sew the bottom edge. Too much sewing or too-tight stitches will restrict coin movement and ruin the bra.

I made my base out of scraps and got my coin drape for about $30 USD. Belt ran about $30 as well. So, with only minor cussing and $70, I got a set I could have paid $100 and up for. Time well spent, so to say.

Finished product:

Enjoy!

Double Duty

2011-07-17T09:07:00.005-04:00

First, apologies from the Practical Dancer. I had lofty, ambitious goals of regular posts that conveyed useful wisdom, all perfectly organized and locked down in files saved to my hard drive, perfectly edited and back up copies ready in case of the catastrophic event of a blog move.

Sigh.

The Practical Dancer has a day job. I have a "second job" of being a Dance Student, Dancer, and troupe member. I am a Wife and a Mom. I read incessantly about dance online. I sew whenever I can, and I have a house to clean, bills to pay, and cats to pet. And, I have some lingering New Year's resolution about "priorities." Like you, I have "a lot on my plate."

It is more important to me that I get these ideas out here for you than that I get them captured permanently on my overstuffed hard drive. Welcome to the new me, fast and loose, and forgive me for being gone for so long.

Now, for the post.

What I have learned in my overstuffed life is that in order to do fun things like go to workshops, the beach, or to visit family for the weekend, you have to spend a fair amount of time traveling. Time one could spend dancing or sewing. I used to just use that time to *think* about dancing or sewing, accomplishing about 2% of good in the process. Then, I learned a simple trick from the Great and Powerful Ozma -- you can, under the right circumstances, multitask! Since a fair amount of my travel is with someone else driving, I began to take projects along with me. Most of our sewing is hand work anyway. Why not knock it out when you are sitting down in a fixed environment for a while?

I made a set of gorgeous beaded sleeves on the 4 round trips to Baltimore when we were buying our boat. That would have been about 30 tedious hours if squeezed in "at home;" but, captive in the car, it helped time to fly by. (Still need to dance in those darned things.)

I almost completely made two little ruffled arm drapes on the way to and from a workshop. (Had to make the pattern and cut them out ahead of time, and do some of the finishing at home on the machine.)

And, yesterday, I worked out the pattern for appliques on a bra and got them sewed on in the 5 hours it took to go and visit family.

The hardest parts of this are 1) breaking down your projects into tasks that can be done in a car (while someone else is driving!) and that also fit the time you will spend in the car; and, 2) knocking out the pre-work and carefully packing so that you have what you need. You will get better at this with practice, as I have. Next thing you know, you will look forward to road trips and waiting rooms as time to sew.

Resolve to repurpose – Christmas day edition!

2010-12-25T12:52:00.001-05:00

A friend of mine says that when she was growing up, her Japanese Mother would always make them clean the house the week between Christmas and New Years. Her thought was that whatever way you start the New Year was the way the rest of your year would go, so a clean and orderly house was in order.

Thinking about this and about New Year’s resolutions we all struggle to keep (as I start up my own end of year cleaning cycle), I wanted to share some ways you can reuse everyday household items to support your dance habits. As I started writing this, I started looking at everything differently; and, I hope you will, too! These resolutions will be EASY to keep, and may save you some money. Let’s see how many we can rack up, starting with the leftover items from today’s gifts.

Save the RIBBONS from Christmas presents and use them as straps (or a strap base) on a costume bra.
. . . or, as side bands for a bra.
. . . or to sew sequins, beads, rhinestones, or other embellishments onto when covering a bra.
. . . or, sew them along the upper band of your hip scarves to stabilize them.
. . . or, sew them along the upper edge dance belts to ease pinning. To do this, hold the ribbon about 1” down from the upper edge of the belt. When sewing, sew along the center line of the ribbon, allowing you to pin above or below as needed.
. . . or, if they complement a belt that is a little too small, use them to cover filler material that expands the belt diameter.
. . . or, use them for wrist bands.
. . . or, for arm bands.
. . . or, for flutters that dangle off of arm bands.
. . . or, for a head band.
. . . or, for ankle bands.
Save the TISSUE PAPER from today’s packages to wrap your coins scarves in; the tissue will keep them shiny.
. . . or, cut the tissue into small squares to use as blotting papers for glistening brows after a show.
. . . or, use it to cushion more delicate props, like glass candle holders.
Save the BOXES from today’s gifts to stow your bedlah.
. . . or, for storing your beaded dresses so they do not stretch.
. . . or, for storing your beaded skirts so they do not stretch.
. . . or, for storing your hipscarves.
And, since silica gel IS your new best friend, you know you want to save those guys to store with your costumes, right?
But, did you know that you could also keep silica gel to store with your FABRIC to keep it in good shape, long before it becomes a costume?

Basic Cover-up Pattern

2010-12-25T12:04:00.002-05:00

Christmas Greetings, all! A few months back, a member of Bellydanceforums.net asked about making a cover up. It took a few months to find the time to capture it in writing; but, here it is, my Christmas gift to you, in (hopefully) a printable pdf format.

Please let me know if you catch any errors in the pattern, and I shall correct them.

Regards,

Anala

This applies to costumes, too!

2010-12-18T07:05:00.003-05:00

A recent blog post on CNN discussed whether someone could "catch" diseases from vintage clothing. Having worked in a thrift store during college, I can attest that the most delightful items can come from questionable sources. And, environments like thrift stores pile all of the merchandise together, allowing "icky things" to spread. While the likelihood of getting sick from a costume is low, there is a slightly higher chance that you will inherit silverfish or other little critters that like to dine on fabric (as opposed to dining on you).

You may be wondering how this relates to costumes . . .

Ever bought a used one at a workshop?

Ever bought one from a vendor?

Ever bought one, period? Or, bought the parts?

The sad truth is that textiles that become costumes tend to travel a LOT. They may come from halfway around the world. They may live in someone's basement for a few years. And, they may come with "friends."

So, the advice in Dr. Gupta's blog is sound: wash it if you can, isolate the item in a plastic bag for a few weeks, and take good care of your clothes. Periodically inspect all of your costumes and the containers you store them in, looking for little visitors. Keep them in a clean, conditioned environment. And, when introducing new costumes in to the mix, quarantine them for a bit!

Took an AMAZING costuming workshop!

2010-09-26T14:30:00.002-04:00

Folks, I just took the most wonderful costuming workshop yesterday with the lovely Christina from Black Lotus Clothing! I have to just gush -- she was informative, encouraging, clear, and so sweet! I had only seen her creations online, but you have to see them in person to truly appreciate her art. While I am admittedly not that Tribal, and not that Tribal Fusion, I found a lot of her design concepts are appropriate to all costuming needs. And, considering how much I LOVED the movie "Pretty in Pink" as a teenager, I really loved her work and her thinking.

She provided tips that universally apply: how to get inspiration, how to get to costuming quickly, how to repurpose and upcycle (my favorite), AND how to see beyond the surface when contemplating a garment at a thrift store in order to bring out the gold from the scrap hill (or, cover up the scrap hill with gold). She has only recently started teaching this workshop; but, I can assure you she is a natural teacher. She provided so much material in two hours that I need to go back and study my copious notes. I will never look at clearance rack or thrift store aisle the same way again -- and, I will NOT be afraid to rip rather than cut, to throw everything in a pile and see what works, to stand in front of a mirror and fit a garment that is hanging on me! She is fast and loose, full of infectious creative energy, and definitely someone that can inspire! If she is in your area (or, if you are close to her), you OWE it to yourself to study with her!

Choli conversion

2009-11-21T12:36:00.005-05:00

A while back, I put up a post on how to convert a camisole to a bra and sash set. You can use similar principles to make a top (tunic, blouse, or other shirt) into a choli.

Method 1:
If you can't sew and are desperate, take a short T-shirt that fits snugly and carefully tuck it up under your bra. Use another method if it looks lumpy or you will be dancing close to your audience (like a restaurant). Have a friend pin it in place.

Method 2 (minimal sewing):
1. Obtain a top that you like the look of, such as a black velvet (for a basic choli) or one in a color or pattern you like.
2. Put the top on, raise your arms high over your heed, have a friend mark 1" BELOW where the shirt hits your bra band under each arm.
3. Take the top off and lay it flat on a table or other surface you can mark or cut on.
4. Mark a straight line between the marks on each side.
5. Cut along the line CAREFULLY.
6. Try on the top to see where the new bottom hem falls.
7. Baste on pretty trim or ribbon - Heavier trim will help keep the hem "down" when you dance – this and some fringe can keep your performance “G” rated!

Method 3 (more sewing skill required):
1. Obtain a top that you like the look of, such as a black velvet (for a basic choli) or one in a color or pattern you like.
2. If you want to add any gathers to enhance the bustline, do it now (before proceeding to the steps below).
3. Put the top on, raise your arms high over your heed, have a friend mark 2.5" BELOW where the shirt hits your bra band under each arm.
4. Take the top off and lay it flat on a table or other surface you can mark or cut on.
5. Mark a straight line between the marks on each side.
6. Cut along the line CAREFULLY.
7. Try on the top to see where the new bottom hem falls. If it looks like you have enough fabric to add an elastic band, continue with the steps below; if not, go up to method #2, step 7.
8. Use a 3/4 inch to 1” band of elastic to make a bottom band, folding the fabric over to cover the band and sewing into place.
9. Wear with pride!

Any fabric that you cut off from the bottom of the “donor top” can still be used to make a sash or a belt.

Here are two versions; the black one on top uses method 2 (also adding trim to neck and cropped sleeves), while the bottom multicolored choli uses method 3.

Safe Fan Transport

2009-06-20T21:56:00.001-04:00

About a year ago, as a door prize in a fan workshop, I won a gorgeous feather fan -- turquoise blue with peacock accents. I have wanted to dance with it since; but, one fear kept me from doing so: how could I safely take it to and from venues? After some searching, I found a relatively inexpensive solution that will repel water and keep the fan from getting crushed. I purchased a zippered portfolio case from my local arts and crafts store. It has plastic sides that will keep water out, the shape is a broad, skinny box with a handle for easy carrying, and the shape will keep the fan so that the weight is on the fan’s base, not the feathers. I got my husband to rustle up some out of date foam-board (dry mount) advertising from work and stuck a piece on either side of the case to reinforce it a little more. The case has big pocket on one side and elastic straps that cross in an X on the other (like some suitcases) – both of these features hold the foam board securely and act as more cushioning for the fan.

My gorgeous fan (a handmade Dorma original!) will finally make its debut next week.

Quick tummy cover ideas

2009-04-25T13:10:00.001-04:00

I put these in a post on orientaldancer and wanted to share them here, too.

If you want to cover your tummy, here are some ideas.
1. Wear a leotard, alone or under a top.
2. Buy panty hose that are at least 2 sizes too big, that are NOT control top, and that have as few seams as possible. Pull them up all the way to your bra and pin them thoroughly (use about 8 pins or more). Wear a top over the bra and improvised bodystocking. You can cut off the legs if you want. (Flourish of the veil to Scheherzade for that one!)
3. Wear a long fitted shirt.
4. Wear a tank top -- but, I recommend pinning it to your underwear so that it does not ride up as you dance. Again, use about 6-8 pins.
5. Wear a shirt that can be folded / tied up. Then embellish with a "tummy drape": a pretty necklace, crocheted scarf, or other pretty, dangly thing hung beneath your bra line

And whatever you do, SMILE! It will draw their eyes up.

Checklist for performing

2009-04-25T13:04:00.001-04:00

You may have seen these on other middle eastern / belly dance / raqs sharki sites; but, it always seems to be quick list or product promotion event rather than a how to. So, here are some suggested questions to help YOU build YOUR list. Then, I’ll share my own.

Questions to ask yourself:
1. Where will I be performing? (Can I finish getting ready there or should I leave my home in full costume? Will you need shoes? Was there a special request that requires something I need to bring, like zills, extra hip scarves, etc.?)
2. What will I do when it is my turn to perform? (Do I have my music? Do I have a backup plan? So I need props like a veil, cane, etc.? Is this a group number that requires specific costume parts or accessories?)
3. Am I in charge? (Do I need to bring a CD player? What about an extension cord? Will I need glasses to read those nicely labeled CD’s the dancers will bring? Do I need to bring anything for my dancers, like water, band aids, etc.?)
4. What will I do after the show? (Do I need a change of clothes? Oh, yeah – do I need a real bra, then? Do I need a bag to hold all of this stuff? And, do I need a UHAUL to carry it?)

Ask yourself these questions every time you get ready to perform and you will cover 90% or more of what you need.

Then, one time, allow yourself an extra 10 minutes to get ready for a gig. As you get ready, have a way to write down EVERYTHING that you use or need for the performance. I put my list on the last page of my student notebook, which I take with me when I go to classes, to out of town workshops, etc. This list will help you not only when you are getting ready for your ordinary halfa, it will also be very useful if you have to pack to travel for a performance.

Here is my comprehensive list, which reflects my priorities, now that I look at it!

Costume items:
Cover-up
Bra / top
Belt / scarf
Skirt / pants
Veil
Shoes
Underpants that don’t show
Bra that doesn’t show
Earrings
Necklace
Bracelets
Rings
Anklets
Zills
Hairclips / bands
Hair accessories
Props: cane, sword, fan, candles

Cosmetics:
Powder
Mascara
Lash comb
Eyeliner
Brow makeup
Lipstick – base
Lipstick – top coat
Glitter
Hair brush
Hair spray
Styling paste
Styling tools
Eyelashes
Lash glue
Tweezers
Toothpicks (for the item below and the lashes)
Bindis
Mirror
Eye shadow
Eye makeup remover
Qtips
Cotton balls
Baby oil (the only thing that takes off my lipstick!)

“Insurance Items”
Double stick tape (a wonder on a roll!)
Sewing kit
Safety pins
Bobby pins
Does anything need batteries? (for cameras and candles, people!)
Music
Backup music
3rd choice!
Bag to hold it all
Hangers
Bodystocking
Lint roller
Razor scissors
Pain meds
Bandaids
Nailfile
Sharpie marker
Camera and film
Change of clothes and shoes
Tampons or pads

Now, I don’t use every item every time, but I do review this list and the questions above every time. Make your own list that works for you – it is the creation and the review of the list that makes the difference, not just what’s on it!

Happy dancing!

Your Performance CD

2009-04-25T12:37:00.000-04:00

“Wait,” you say, “I thought this was a costuming blog!”

Well, it is; but, it is also a blog about organization and saving money. And, when you take a whole CD full of songs (store bought or burned) with you to perform, you will not appear organized and you will risk losing money (especially if it is a CD you purchased).

So, let’s talk about the CD you take with you when you perform. Please do not take an original. Performances are tense for everyone – and, the person who runs the music gets the jitters, too. Any of the following things could happen:
- you are so full of adrenaline after the performance that you forget to get your CD back after the show
- you get it back, but then lose it while you changing out of your costume
- the person running the music keeps it
- or, they accidentally give it to someone else
- someone takes it (intentionally or not)
- it breaks
- it gets stuck in the player (This happened to me the FIRST time I performed at a hafla. The venue came with a player, but no one knew how to use it. 2 CD’s got stuck in at the same time – luckily, no permanent damage happened!)

If you take a COPY versus the ORIGINAL, then you will still have the ORIGINAL at home even if something happens to the COPY. That is how the advice below will save you money.

Now that we have covered the virtues of using a COPY, here is why it is important to label it: If you do not label your music, it looks like everybody else’s music. And, that means the emcee could put the wrong disc in, causing another dancer to hear your CD when it is their turn and just keep dancing. (I have seen this happen!) Or, you hear the wrong song from your multi-track disc and just keep dancing. (I have seen this happen, too!)

Labeling ensures that your music is ready when it is your turn. Having only one song on the disc helps, too, because the more songs on the disc, the greater the likelihood that the wrong one will be queued up. On your COPY disc, include ONLY the song you are dancing to. Then, label the disc with the following information, in this order

1. YOUR DANCE NAME
2. (Your real name)
3. The song name
4. The duration of the song

Here is why:
1. YOUR DANCE NAME should be in all caps, large font, so that it can be read in dim light through false eyelashes.
2. (Your real name should be in parentheses, in case that is the only way others know you and so you don’t get introduced that way.)
3. The song name is there because you will develop a collection of these and you want to quickly sort through and find the one you want when a last minute opportunity arises.
4. The duration of the song should be there because sometimes you want a longer number, and sometimes you don’t!

These simple steps will help you be (and appear) more organized. A little organization prior to the performance will greatly contribute to how your actual performance goes!

- this post was inspired by recent events. ;)

If the shoe fits . . . dance in it!

2009-04-07T22:30:00.000-04:00

Our choices as to what we wear when we dance are personal, and they are a reflection of our personalities – our taste and our needs. When performing, many dancers go barefoot, whether out of a sense of “tradition” or out of a desire to control movement. There are times, though, when shoes are a very good idea. When I perform, I will often take along shoes I can perform in, just in case there are hazards on my stage.

What hazards, you ask:
1. Splinters on a wooden stage
2. Beads or coins from a prior dancer
3. Broken glass on the floor of a restaurant
4. God knows what else on that same floor (ewwwwww!)

Most times, a pair of ballet slippers will suffice. If that is all you want, I highly recommend a pair with at least one strand of elastic across the instep and a split sole; these traits will increase your flexibility and keep your shoes on and comfortable when you are in relevee. However, sometimes, you might want something that can easily transition from the parking lot to the dance floor, and that is where repurposing shoes comes in handy.

When you look for footwear that can become dancewear, the things to look for are: a slick sole, a good fit, and a flexible color that will blend with your wardrobe. Pretty similar to how you buy shoes anyway, right? – except for the slick part, so let’s start there.

Slick: When you dance, you actually want your foot to slide easily. A slick sole will pivot easily on carpet and keep you from putting too much torque on your knee. This is one time where a slick sole is a good thing. Look for smooth soles, preferably made of leather.

Fit: If the shoe is uncomfortable when you buy it, it will be downright miserable when you are anxiously waiting to dance in the evening. Most shoe shopping advice cautions that your feet swell during the day; so, shop in the evening, just as you would for regular shoes. Look for something that moves with your foot, allowing you to goe up on your toes without coming off. And, there is no rule that you cannot add a small piece of elastic just as you would to a pair of ballet slippers.

Color: If you look at your dance wardrobe from a distance, what color links most of the pieces? Chances are, you are either a gold or a silver person. Looking for shoes in one of these colors will not only allow you greater flexibility in how you partner them with costumes, the colors will also blend better with most skin tones than, say, black, red, etc. Most dancers want a shoe to blend with their skin tone, lengthening the leg. So, pick a color that works with you clothes and your goals.

Once you have a pair in hand (or, on the foot as the case may be), practice in them! Get very used to dancing in them before you perform. (This is good advice for any costume piece, by the way.) Modify them as needed to make them comfortable and functional. And, if you add trim, remember that the more you add the more you narrow how you can match them.

North American Find Forecast: March 2009

2009-03-14T11:06:00.005-04:00

The Christmas, Mardi Gras, and Valentine’s day holiday inventories are fading; while St. Patrick’s day, Easter and Prom season are on the rise. Spring is dawning here in the US, and here is your “forecast” for what you may find and convert to belly dance use in a store near you.

Red items: carry over from Valentine’s Day, and some Christmas. Price and availability are trending down. Look for: fabrics, jewelry, heart items that may embellish (think: appliqués, sequins, things that can be cut up and sewn on). Location: a clearance rack near you.

Emerald Greens: Some Christmas residuals may be out there, some Mardi Gras, but St. Patrick’s items are more likely. Prices will plummet, along with availability after March 17th. Look for: fabrics, some jewelry, embellishments will mostly be of bead variety. (No one really got into Mardi Gras around here this year due to the recession, so there may be beads aplenty.) Also, may find Purples and Golds. Location: a clearance rack near you.

Pastels: Easter and Prom are converging. Availability will rise over the next few weeks; prices will not drop until mid April. Look for: fabrics (satin, chiffon, silks), complimentary jewelry, and some convertible scarves (related posts coming soon). Embellishments may be in the form of appliqués, sequins, and brooches. Keep an eye out for shoes and sandals (again, related posts coming soon). Location: front of the store, where the “in season” items are kept.

Thrift store report: Some post-holiday and winter clearance on Red, Greens, and velvets. Remember, most thrift stores discount after 4 to 6 weeks in inventory, so seasonal finds are not as common as discounts based on time-in-inventory. Trending high on pre-Prom and pre-Easter (both price and availability). Also, continue to look for belly dance friendly items from years past: bohemian skirts, shirts with Beledi sleeves, embellished tanks -- these items will continue to surface over time; but, availability will always be “target of opportunity” due to the dependence on donations.

*This post title was edited on 3/18/09, as it really applies to North American seasons. Some holidays may be celebrated internationally, so you may be able follow those leads if you are one of my international readers. Feel free to comment if you have thoughts on this matter.

Street Skirts Hit the Stage

2009-03-04T21:28:00.008-05:00

Isn’t it interesting how everything is more expensive when it’s “for bellydance?” By that, I mean that a simple tiered skirt hangs forlorn on a department store rack at some big-box discount store with a price tag less than $20US, while its not so distant cousin sits packed in a vendor’s truck, waiting to be displayed at an upcoming workshop with a price tag that is 3 to 5 times higher . . .

Folks, skirts are skirts. There are some that are elaborate enough to warrant vendor prices; and, you will not find those out in the wild. But, if you know what to look for, and where to look, you can buy performance worthy gems at clearance rack (“I never met a clearance rack I didn’t like!”) prices. Here is how.

Buy it to fit how you will wear it. That is, street skirts tend to be worn on the waist, and rarely fall below mid-calf; performance skirts need to fall on the hip and extend to the ankle. When buying, try them on so that the “waist” falls at your hip – look to see if the hem falls deep enough to cover the ankle and watch for “hip bumps” in the side seams. (Some skirts are shaped to curve around your hips – that doesn’t quite work when you slide them down to “below the belt.”)

Think of the possibilities. A plain black velvet skirt with a swirl panel (some call it a petal panel) shape may only look ho-hum; stick on some sequin trim along the seams and you have a bit of pizzazz! (FYI, slide the skirt over a piece of cardboard – I used my folded up cutting board. It will keep you from accidentally sewing the front to the back.)

When you get it home, try it on – with your costumes! I literally have “dress up parties” with my young daughter where we see which of Mommy’s pieces work with her new finds. And, when you buy skirts retail (vs. from dance vendors), you can often leverage a return policy.

Buy what you will ACTUALLY wear. I have a pink cotton full skirt with cute little shisha mirrors sewn on that seemed like a great idea at the time. I only wore it to class twice. I’m just not that tribal, I guess.

Basic Bedlah / Beledi Dress Storage

2009-03-04T21:00:00.006-05:00

Your costume is an investment – normally, several hundred dollars (in $US, at least). Here are a few basic tips to help protect that investment:

1) Store them flat – do not hang. Beads have weight, and weight stretches fabrics. A dress that fits perfectly when you buy it can mysteriously grow 3 inches while hanging. Unless you really enjoy altering beaded hems, don’t hang it.
2) Store them in a protective environment – ideally, an acid free box. My personal preference is an acid free photo box. I am lucky in that I am small busted, so a photo box that sells for about $3.50US (on sale) can hold at least one half (top or bottom) of a bedlah; some beledi dresses fit in there as well. Larger boxes can be had at higher prices.
a. Why acid free? Acid eats fabric. ‘nuff said?
b. How do I fold them? Let the shape of your costume guide you: fold the belt to follow the curves of your hips. Gently place them in (fringe first), then ease the rest of the belt in.
c. How big of a box do I need? I base it on my bras – the box should be wide enough that my bra can easily fit with the cups up (i.e. the box needs to be about as wide as your shoulders.
d. They don’t make boxes big enough – what do I do?!? (AND) I really don’t want to spend money – what are my other options? Men’s shoe boxes and boot boxes (men’s or women’s) are a wonderful, larger, and often free alternative.
3) Throw in a little extra insurance – remember, Silica Gel is your new best friend!
4) Take the container with you when you perform. I tuck mine in a bag along with my change of clothes. This allows me to tuck my costume away in its protective shell after I do my quick change, protecting the beads and sequins from the ravages of transport. And, I keep a small zip-top bag in the box to hold jewelry. (Learned that one when a necklace “married” the fringe of a bra after one show.) Just remember to let your costume air a bit before tucking away for long-term storage.

Harem Pant conversion

2009-02-27T09:49:00.009-05:00

There are some things I am willing to splurge on: a well beaded bra and belt, a good silk veil, a beledi dress that is a “one-step costume.” But, harem pants do not fall on that list. Here is how I made a pair for about $6US and some tips so you can, too.

When shopping, start at a thrift store or clearance rack. (“I never met a clearance rack I did not like!”) Then:

1) Look for the for a pair of loose fitting, elastic waist pants in a material that breathes and a color that is USEFUL to your wardrobe. Washable fabrics are even better. I was very lucky and found this pair of black rayon “beach pants” for $4.99US at the local Good---- store.

2) Bring or borrow a rubber band or pony tail tie. You will need it to try the pants on.
3) Check to see that the pants are at least 5 inches longer than you need. I am lucky, because I am short; so, this happens more often than not.
4) Also, be sure that the pants have a full leg to the ankle.
5) When you try the pants on, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. This will let you see how the pants will look if you modify them. If you like the look, buy the pants; if not, keep looking.
6) There are two methods of converting these to harem pants:
a. NO SEW: When you need to wear them, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. Betcha didn’t think it would be that easy, huh?
b. Some sewing: 1) cut a piece of elastic that is about .5 to 1 inch bigger than the circumference of your ankle. This allows room for overlap and keeps the cuff from being too tight. 2) stitch the ends of the elastic together. 3) turn the pants inside out. 4) slip the elastic band over the cuff of the pants. 5) fold the cuff of the pants over the band and stitch into place.
7) Save the money you spend for something more valuable to YOU!

Camisole conversion

2009-02-27T08:48:00.012-05:00

If is one law about costuming, it would probably say, “You can spend money, or you can spend time.” Here is a sewing project for those of you with more of the latter.

Moderate sewing skills needed.
Estimated project time, 4 hours.
Estimated total cost: $20US

Start with one off-the-rack camisole. I found this one on a clearance rack (“I never met a clearance rack I didn’t like!”) for about $7US. This one featured an underbust seam and gathered cups, making bra conversion easy.

What it looked like when I started:

Steps for bra:
1) Carefully cut the camisole to follow a line one inch below the cups, so that you have enough fabric to fold up and under the bra line.
a. Note 1: It is better to cut further down (reducing the remaining fabric that can become your scarf or belt) than to skip on the bra. Trust me on this one.
b. Note 2: if your cami has two layers (mine was thin silk and slippery satin), it is a VERY good idea to pin or tack-stitch the layers together just below the line you will cut. This will keep them aligned when you make your skirt. Again, trust me on this one.
2) Since this cami was silk, I sewed some grosgrain ribbon along the raw edge of the fabric. (By the way, this is one way to recover if you cut too high in step one.)
3) Sew bra cups into the top if desired.
4) Fold the bottom edge of fabric up and under. Sew into place.

5) I wanted this bra top to fit tightly, so I added elastic along the back from side seam to side seam.

6) I then covered the elastic in craft felt. Any soft, non-fraying fabric that is sweat friendly will do.

7) Embellish as desired. Here, I made some tassels accented with sequins, I made some bows out of trim, and I covered the straps with the same trim.**

Steps for scarf / skirt:*
1) If you cami had two layers of fabric, align and pin or tack-stitch them together.
2) If desired, sew some grosgrain ribbon along the raw edge of the fabric.
3) Fold the top edge of the fabric over and under to make a hip band. Sew into place, adding elastic if you wish.

4) Embellish as desired.

Here is the finished product:

* You can also cover a belt if you have enough fabric and patience. I did not.
** There are those of you who will roll your eyes and say “Christmas trim, not AGAIN!” Please understand that this is not intended to be a “professional costume.” This is intended to be a costume for haflas or informal performances, made by those who are new to performing and who do have more time than money to spend on costumes.

Silica Gel is your new Best Friend

2009-02-27T07:56:00.000-05:00

You have probably thrown away thousands of these little packs in your life; but you may never want to do that again. They come in boxes of shoes, with furniture, in new purses, even in medicines and some foods. And, their purpose is to KEEP THINGS DRY.

As a dancer, you have costumes and accessories that you want to protect from sweat, humidity, errant water bottles, etc. If you were to tuck one of these little marvels in the box where you store your bedlah (because, yes, you want to store it in a box – look for a future post on that topic), then it will silently protect your beautiful and expensive costume from damage. And, if you were to be sure you took a large one along when you perform, you can make those quick costume changes and just stow the costume with the packet (for a few hours at least) without worrying about damage from perspiration. My family is now trained to save every one they find, so that all of my costumes can be protected. I even keep one in my dance bag that I take to class – because ballet shoes can harbor moisture that can damage veils and hip scarves, too.

So, only follow half of the directions on the packet. “Do NOT EAT!” But, please do not throw them away!