Please let me know if you catch any errors in the pattern, and I shall correct them.
Regards,
Anala
Showing posts with label no sew. Show all posts
Showing posts with label no sew. Show all posts
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Basic Cover-up Pattern
Christmas Greetings, all! A few months back, a member of Bellydanceforums.net asked about making a cover up. It took a few months to find the time to capture it in writing; but, here it is, my Christmas gift to you, in (hopefully) a printable pdf format.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Quick tummy cover ideas
I put these in a post on orientaldancer and wanted to share them here, too.
If you want to cover your tummy, here are some ideas.
1. Wear a leotard, alone or under a top.
2. Buy panty hose that are at least 2 sizes too big, that are NOT control top, and that have as few seams as possible. Pull them up all the way to your bra and pin them thoroughly (use about 8 pins or more). Wear a top over the bra and improvised bodystocking. You can cut off the legs if you want. (Flourish of the veil to Scheherzade for that one!)
3. Wear a long fitted shirt.
4. Wear a tank top -- but, I recommend pinning it to your underwear so that it does not ride up as you dance. Again, use about 6-8 pins.
5. Wear a shirt that can be folded / tied up. Then embellish with a "tummy drape": a pretty necklace, crocheted scarf, or other pretty, dangly thing hung beneath your bra line
And whatever you do, SMILE! It will draw their eyes up.
If you want to cover your tummy, here are some ideas.
1. Wear a leotard, alone or under a top.
2. Buy panty hose that are at least 2 sizes too big, that are NOT control top, and that have as few seams as possible. Pull them up all the way to your bra and pin them thoroughly (use about 8 pins or more). Wear a top over the bra and improvised bodystocking. You can cut off the legs if you want. (Flourish of the veil to Scheherzade for that one!)
3. Wear a long fitted shirt.
4. Wear a tank top -- but, I recommend pinning it to your underwear so that it does not ride up as you dance. Again, use about 6-8 pins.
5. Wear a shirt that can be folded / tied up. Then embellish with a "tummy drape": a pretty necklace, crocheted scarf, or other pretty, dangly thing hung beneath your bra line
And whatever you do, SMILE! It will draw their eyes up.
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
If the shoe fits . . . dance in it!
Our choices as to what we wear when we dance are personal, and they are a reflection of our personalities – our taste and our needs. When performing, many dancers go barefoot, whether out of a sense of “tradition” or out of a desire to control movement. There are times, though, when shoes are a very good idea. When I perform, I will often take along shoes I can perform in, just in case there are hazards on my stage.
What hazards, you ask:
1. Splinters on a wooden stage
2. Beads or coins from a prior dancer
3. Broken glass on the floor of a restaurant
4. God knows what else on that same floor (ewwwwww!)
Most times, a pair of ballet slippers will suffice. If that is all you want, I highly recommend a pair with at least one strand of elastic across the instep and a split sole; these traits will increase your flexibility and keep your shoes on and comfortable when you are in relevee. However, sometimes, you might want something that can easily transition from the parking lot to the dance floor, and that is where repurposing shoes comes in handy.
When you look for footwear that can become dancewear, the things to look for are: a slick sole, a good fit, and a flexible color that will blend with your wardrobe. Pretty similar to how you buy shoes anyway, right? – except for the slick part, so let’s start there.
Slick: When you dance, you actually want your foot to slide easily. A slick sole will pivot easily on carpet and keep you from putting too much torque on your knee. This is one time where a slick sole is a good thing. Look for smooth soles, preferably made of leather.
Fit: If the shoe is uncomfortable when you buy it, it will be downright miserable when you are anxiously waiting to dance in the evening. Most shoe shopping advice cautions that your feet swell during the day; so, shop in the evening, just as you would for regular shoes. Look for something that moves with your foot, allowing you to goe up on your toes without coming off. And, there is no rule that you cannot add a small piece of elastic just as you would to a pair of ballet slippers.
Color: If you look at your dance wardrobe from a distance, what color links most of the pieces? Chances are, you are either a gold or a silver person. Looking for shoes in one of these colors will not only allow you greater flexibility in how you partner them with costumes, the colors will also blend better with most skin tones than, say, black, red, etc. Most dancers want a shoe to blend with their skin tone, lengthening the leg. So, pick a color that works with you clothes and your goals.
Once you have a pair in hand (or, on the foot as the case may be), practice in them! Get very used to dancing in them before you perform. (This is good advice for any costume piece, by the way.) Modify them as needed to make them comfortable and functional. And, if you add trim, remember that the more you add the more you narrow how you can match them.
What hazards, you ask:
1. Splinters on a wooden stage
2. Beads or coins from a prior dancer
3. Broken glass on the floor of a restaurant
4. God knows what else on that same floor (ewwwwww!)
Most times, a pair of ballet slippers will suffice. If that is all you want, I highly recommend a pair with at least one strand of elastic across the instep and a split sole; these traits will increase your flexibility and keep your shoes on and comfortable when you are in relevee. However, sometimes, you might want something that can easily transition from the parking lot to the dance floor, and that is where repurposing shoes comes in handy.
When you look for footwear that can become dancewear, the things to look for are: a slick sole, a good fit, and a flexible color that will blend with your wardrobe. Pretty similar to how you buy shoes anyway, right? – except for the slick part, so let’s start there.
Slick: When you dance, you actually want your foot to slide easily. A slick sole will pivot easily on carpet and keep you from putting too much torque on your knee. This is one time where a slick sole is a good thing. Look for smooth soles, preferably made of leather.
Fit: If the shoe is uncomfortable when you buy it, it will be downright miserable when you are anxiously waiting to dance in the evening. Most shoe shopping advice cautions that your feet swell during the day; so, shop in the evening, just as you would for regular shoes. Look for something that moves with your foot, allowing you to goe up on your toes without coming off. And, there is no rule that you cannot add a small piece of elastic just as you would to a pair of ballet slippers.
Color: If you look at your dance wardrobe from a distance, what color links most of the pieces? Chances are, you are either a gold or a silver person. Looking for shoes in one of these colors will not only allow you greater flexibility in how you partner them with costumes, the colors will also blend better with most skin tones than, say, black, red, etc. Most dancers want a shoe to blend with their skin tone, lengthening the leg. So, pick a color that works with you clothes and your goals.
Once you have a pair in hand (or, on the foot as the case may be), practice in them! Get very used to dancing in them before you perform. (This is good advice for any costume piece, by the way.) Modify them as needed to make them comfortable and functional. And, if you add trim, remember that the more you add the more you narrow how you can match them.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Street Skirts Hit the Stage
Isn’t it interesting how everything is more expensive when it’s “for bellydance?” By that, I mean that a simple tiered skirt hangs forlorn on a department store rack at some big-box discount store with a price tag less than $20US, while its not so distant cousin sits packed in a vendor’s truck, waiting to be displayed at an upcoming workshop with a price tag that is 3 to 5 times higher . . .
Folks, skirts are skirts. There are some that are elaborate enough to warrant vendor prices; and, you will not find those out in the wild. But, if you know what to look for, and where to look, you can buy performance worthy gems at clearance rack (“I never met a clearance rack I didn’t like!”) prices. Here is how.
Buy it to fit how you will wear it. That is, street skirts tend to be worn on the waist, and rarely fall below mid-calf; performance skirts need to fall on the hip and extend to the ankle. When buying, try them on so that the “waist” falls at your hip – look to see if the hem falls deep enough to cover the ankle and watch for “hip bumps” in the side seams. (Some skirts are shaped to curve around your hips – that doesn’t quite work when you slide them down to “below the belt.”)
Think of the possibilities. A plain black velvet skirt with a swirl panel (some call it a petal panel) shape may only look ho-hum; stick on some sequin trim along the seams and you have a bit of pizzazz! (FYI, slide the skirt over a piece of cardboard – I used my folded up cutting board. It will keep you from accidentally sewing the front to the back.)
When you get it home, try it on – with your costumes! I literally have “dress up parties” with my young daughter where we see which of Mommy’s pieces work with her new finds. And, when you buy skirts retail (vs. from dance vendors), you can often leverage a return policy.
Buy what you will ACTUALLY wear. I have a pink cotton full skirt with cute little shisha mirrors sewn on that seemed like a great idea at the time. I only wore it to class twice. I’m just not that tribal, I guess.
Folks, skirts are skirts. There are some that are elaborate enough to warrant vendor prices; and, you will not find those out in the wild. But, if you know what to look for, and where to look, you can buy performance worthy gems at clearance rack (“I never met a clearance rack I didn’t like!”) prices. Here is how.
Buy it to fit how you will wear it. That is, street skirts tend to be worn on the waist, and rarely fall below mid-calf; performance skirts need to fall on the hip and extend to the ankle. When buying, try them on so that the “waist” falls at your hip – look to see if the hem falls deep enough to cover the ankle and watch for “hip bumps” in the side seams. (Some skirts are shaped to curve around your hips – that doesn’t quite work when you slide them down to “below the belt.”)
Think of the possibilities. A plain black velvet skirt with a swirl panel (some call it a petal panel) shape may only look ho-hum; stick on some sequin trim along the seams and you have a bit of pizzazz! (FYI, slide the skirt over a piece of cardboard – I used my folded up cutting board. It will keep you from accidentally sewing the front to the back.)
When you get it home, try it on – with your costumes! I literally have “dress up parties” with my young daughter where we see which of Mommy’s pieces work with her new finds. And, when you buy skirts retail (vs. from dance vendors), you can often leverage a return policy.
Buy what you will ACTUALLY wear. I have a pink cotton full skirt with cute little shisha mirrors sewn on that seemed like a great idea at the time. I only wore it to class twice. I’m just not that tribal, I guess.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Harem Pant conversion
There are some things I am willing to splurge on: a well beaded bra and belt, a good silk veil, a beledi dress that is a “one-step costume.” But, harem pants do not fall on that list. Here is how I made a pair for about $6US and some tips so you can, too.
When shopping, start at a thrift store or clearance rack. (“I never met a clearance rack I did not like!”) Then:
1) Look for the for a pair of loose fitting, elastic waist pants in a material that breathes and a color that is USEFUL to your wardrobe. Washable fabrics are even better. I was very lucky and found this pair of black rayon “beach pants” for $4.99US at the local Good---- store.
2) Bring or borrow a rubber band or pony tail tie. You will need it to try the pants on.
3) Check to see that the pants are at least 5 inches longer than you need. I am lucky, because I am short; so, this happens more often than not.
4) Also, be sure that the pants have a full leg to the ankle.
5) When you try the pants on, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. This will let you see how the pants will look if you modify them. If you like the look, buy the pants; if not, keep looking.
6) There are two methods of converting these to harem pants:
a. NO SEW: When you need to wear them, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. Betcha didn’t think it would be that easy, huh?
b. Some sewing: 1) cut a piece of elastic that is about .5 to 1 inch bigger than the circumference of your ankle. This allows room for overlap and keeps the cuff from being too tight. 2) stitch the ends of the elastic together. 3) turn the pants inside out. 4) slip the elastic band over the cuff of the pants. 5) fold the cuff of the pants over the band and stitch into place.
7) Save the money you spend for something more valuable to YOU!
When shopping, start at a thrift store or clearance rack. (“I never met a clearance rack I did not like!”) Then:
1) Look for the for a pair of loose fitting, elastic waist pants in a material that breathes and a color that is USEFUL to your wardrobe. Washable fabrics are even better. I was very lucky and found this pair of black rayon “beach pants” for $4.99US at the local Good---- store.
2) Bring or borrow a rubber band or pony tail tie. You will need it to try the pants on.
3) Check to see that the pants are at least 5 inches longer than you need. I am lucky, because I am short; so, this happens more often than not.
4) Also, be sure that the pants have a full leg to the ankle.
5) When you try the pants on, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. This will let you see how the pants will look if you modify them. If you like the look, buy the pants; if not, keep looking.
6) There are two methods of converting these to harem pants:
a. NO SEW: When you need to wear them, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. Betcha didn’t think it would be that easy, huh?
b. Some sewing: 1) cut a piece of elastic that is about .5 to 1 inch bigger than the circumference of your ankle. This allows room for overlap and keeps the cuff from being too tight. 2) stitch the ends of the elastic together. 3) turn the pants inside out. 4) slip the elastic band over the cuff of the pants. 5) fold the cuff of the pants over the band and stitch into place.
7) Save the money you spend for something more valuable to YOU!
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