Bra Padding 101 (with bonus strap modification!)

I am a "petite" woman, which has nothing to do with my weight and EVERYTHING to do with my frame and proportions.  Translation: all my bras need padding and my straps will do everything in their power to try and slide off of my shoulders!

I thought I would share how I cope with these things, based on a few years of experience.

First, the bra padding.

There are many schools of bra padding methodology.  Each has their pros and cons.  I go for ease of adding and subtracting padding -- because when I decide I want to sell a costume, I want to RIP the padding out and get it sellable as fast as possible.  There, I said it: I am lazy.  I have elevated lazy to an art form.  (proud smile)

One key thing that you will have to figure out on your own is padding placement.  That is, in general, you need to either pad from the bottom (pushing flesh UP) or the side (pushing flesh IN).  I need the latter; this explanation works for dancers with that figure.

I buy bra pads whenever they go on sale, and I buy them in various shapes and sizes.  (Some bras need more, or differently shaped "oomph.")  This bra is a "classical" egyptian (slightly pointy, hard shell) cup seen here. The pad that provided the right lift was a tad too big.  So, I pushed it as deep into the cup that I could, saw that it fell over the armpit slightly (see #1) and then trimmed off the corner of the teardrop so that it would sit nicely in the cup.  (Do be careful if using gel filled pads, as you need to be sure not to nick the gel pouch with the scissors!  Big Mess ensues!)

After trimming the cup, the next step (#2) is to tack the pad first at the center where the cups meet, then (#3) where the strap falls.  Next, I sew along the curve of the cup, inside by about a 1/4 to 2/5 of an inch (#4).  This is so that the padding does not peek out of the cup -- if any gapping occurs when dancing, I want the liner to show, not the pad.  Now -- let's talk about color choices:  I use black pads for dark bras and lighter for lighter bras.  A gold bra gets a "nude" (beige) pad; a silver or white bra gets a white pad.  Red, orange, pink, blue -- those colors really need the pad to be tucked under the liner fabric.  But, if the pad is close to the color of the bra, then I sew it right over the liner to save time and reduce the risk of nicking the stitches that hold beads.  (Face it, the more surgery you do to a costume, the greater the risk of cutting THE WRONG THREAD.)  I also have started using contrasting thread so that I can be sure I am cutting the correct thread, and not the wrong one.  (See lazy comment, above.)  And, I use a heavy upholstery or button thread or dental floss to reduce the risk of getting severed when randomly safety-pinning other bits to the costume.  (In my case, "lazy" means putting some small effort in one place to reduce significant efforts elsewhere.)

After ensuring the top of the pad doesn't sneak out of the cup (#4), I start forcing the pad as deep into the cup as possible, tacking at the armpit (#5), then roughly the center bottom of the cup (#6).  This is a Push and sew technique -- the pad needs to be deep into the cup to keep from gapping and peeking out the bottom or the sides.  Since the sides and bottom band of this bra fit well, I didn't need to sew the cup the rest of the way.

Repeat on the other side.

More notes: you can either pad first, then fit the back, or fit the back and then pad.  For a better, more natural fit, I strongly, strongly recommend fitting the back first.  That is, get the bra to hook around the chest so that it does not gap and stays put (does not ride up, does not pop loose) FIRST, then pad.  Too much padding causes the bra to "stand away from" (gap) the body and may cause unexpected results (boob fallout, hook popping) in performance.  Fit the bra band first, then use less padding to fill.  Test the bra by wearing it and reaching up as if to hug a tall person.  If the back stays put, you have done your job right.  (The "hug test" is also how to test turkish vests, beledi dresses, and jackets, coats, etc.)  AFTER fitting the bra band and the cup pads, adjust the straps (or, measure straps if you are making your own costume).  this is the voice of experience . . .

BONUS:  strap fixes for the narrow shouldered!

"Petite" means I have no shoulders to speak of.  Posture correction exercises help; but, I can never keep a purse strap on a shoulder, bateau neck shirts fall off my shoulders, and bra straps always head south.  I have a LOT of cross strap, halter strap, and modified halter bras as a result.  This costume, though, came with "standard" straps with a epaulet design.  So, how to get the straps to stay . . .

You know those little ribbon or clear plastic loops they sew in clothes these days?  The ones that are designed to keep the slippery things on hangers?  They tend to be attached in the armpits on shirts, or near the waist on skirts.  I cut them off and save them.  For this!

Take one of these -- I don't know what to call them -- "annoying ribbon loop things" (ARLT's), preferably in clear plastic, and experiment with pinning it to the straps to test placement.  You want it to be high on the back, but not over the shoulders, preferably so it falls under long hair or the wig, and so that there is no slack but that it is not so taught as to rick popping or cutting into the skin.  Be sure it lays flat, not twisted.  Once placement is right, tack stitch it down.

I did this on my purple and silver costume.  A friend was standing RIGHT behind me and could NOT see it.  ;)

Enjoy!

Padding a belt

I know -- you ware wondering why on earth I have a picture of a stack of panty liners.

I am about to reveal one of the secrets of the belly dancing universe.  If you have had a child, like to eat, or are past “a certain age,” you have a “goddess belly.”  A belly that has  . . . shape.  Curve.  Dimension.  And, as a result, your belt sits under that cute little belly curve that you may not think is so cute, after all.  You have that thing that is jokingly diagnosed as “Dunlap’s disease” where the belly done lapped over the belt.

Hence, panty liners to the rescue!

A good friend taught me this method.  What you need to do is to thicken the belt where it falls under the belly.  This brings the visible edge of the belt forward so that the belly sticks out less, making the belly appear a bit nicer.  To do it, take out a handful of panty liners near a surface like a table or counter.  Start with two as your base layer, but do not peel the backing off, yet.  Arrange them so that the narrow ends are touching, as if you needed a double-long liner.  Now, take one pad, peel the backing off, and lay it on top so that it covers the area where the bottom two meet.  Keep building up in a 2-1-2 pattern, until the entirety is the thickness you need.  I need about 5/8 inch, or 9 pads total.  To check thickness, put on the belt that you are working with and slide in the liner stack (centered under the belly button), look in the mirror, and see if it is enough.  When you are happy, open up the lining of your belt where you want to place the pads and THEN you can peel the backing off of the base liners to expose the sticky part.  Use that sticky part to help position the liners, then sew the belt lining fabric back into place.  Replace pads when your body shape changes or you replace the lining.  And hey, they do help absorb sweat, protecting your hard sewing work!

AND, this method can be used for belts you purchase, too!

(PS: I have also cut them up to use as bra padding, too!)

Here is a view of the finished belt, showing you the thickness added by padding.

The Fringe Fence!

Problem: You need to sew fringe onto something; or, worse yet, you need to sew something onto fringe.  You know the thread is going to tangle into the fringe, making knots Houdini couldn't escape from and you are going to wind up hurling the costume across the room in disgust.

Fret no more:  raid your recycling bin, cut two rectangles of cardboard slightly larger than the clump of fringe you are working with, and grab two binder clips from your office.  Trap the fringe in between the cardboard and hold in place with the binder clips.  Cuss less, sew more!

"The Practical Manifesto"

In my "day job," I work in software delivery -- which you would think has very little to do with costume design. Except, the wonderful place where I work has allowed me to learn about the Agile method of delivering work -- a methodology that can help one take any major project and deliver it in value - oriented chunks.

What on earth does this have to do with Costume Stuff?

Everything!

Many of us have a love / hate relationship with trying to make our own costumes. We struggle to take big, daunting projects and finish them. Piles of fabric linger as "future costumes" that never get worn and loved. And, attempting projects beyond our skill causes frustration and failure.

Agile shows us that the key to success is to focus on what is really valuable to the customer (in this case, you). By recognizing that, you can make the call on where to invest your time when costuming, and how to break the work down into small, independently useable pieces that you, as the customer of your own work, deem to be the most valuable.

Thus, with apologies to those who crafted the Agile Manifesto, I would like to share my own "Practical Manifesto":

My highest priority is to create beautiful, functional costuming where each piece delivers value to my wardrobe. 


It is perfectly acceptable to shift design in during construction in order to make the costume more useful. 


Costume creations should be constructed in components that can be scaled to the skills and time that I have to work on them and so that I can use them quickly. 


I am both costume designer and costume wearer; I shall never forget that both my creative and practical needs must both be met. 


I need to be motivated to finish a costume; my costume must have a purpose -- an occasion to use it -- in order to make me finish it. 


The most effective way to make the costume beautiful is to try it on frequently in the process of making it. 


Wearable costumes are how I measure my success. 


I need to enjoy the process of creating costumes. In order to enjoy it, I must set reasonable projects that I am confident I can deliver without growing bored or frustrated. 


As I create, I will grow my skills in creation, getting better at costume creation as I practice. (Just as with my dance!) 


The simplest costume pieces are the most versatile and long-lived in my wardrobe. 


My projects should be based on my skills and strengths: I invest time into what I can create and money (for others to make) that which I cannot on my own. It is OK to “outsource” some costume pieces. 


I shall regularly revisit my old creations and see what I would do differently in the future as I create new ones (or, recreate old ones).

I'll discuss some of these concepts in future posts, giving you some ideas on how to make the call on getting the most value out of the time and money you invest in your wardrobe.

Draped Coin Bra Cover 101

How fast can I type this? I have only been meaning to give you this post FOR A YEAR!!!

sigh. (lot of that today)

Say you need a coin bra costume for a show, like I did about this time last year. And, say, you are frugal and willing to sew. Well, maybe more on the frugal side. Here is what you do:

1. Make a basic black bra base, extra sturdy. Cups that have a point where the strap meets the cup are best for drapes. Rounded cups with no points will require that you do surgery on the drape. You will need a bra base that can support the weight of the coins, which will pull heavily down the cups. This is no time for halters, ladies! You need think, strong straps here that will distribute the weight -- crossed in the back are best.

2. Take the base to a reputable dealer and look for a "coin bra drape." These will look oddly triangular when hanging, and you will need to arrange them over the base to ensure a good fit. These are NOT one size fits all. Take some binder clips, safety pins, and an extra set of hands to help you hold up the drape and see how it fits over THAT base, not the everyday bra you are wearing. The drape needs to be able to cover the cups, flex to hang so that the top edge follows the edges of the cups, and still cover all the way down to the bottom edge of the bra. You can make a *slightly* big drape fit perfectly, but you cannot stretch one that is too small.

3. Buy the matching coin belt at the same time. Trust me, you will regret it if you don't. You will never be able to match it later!

4. At home, make sure you have at least 100 safety pins. Go buy more if you don't. And, pliers.

5. Before you begin draping, look over your drape carefully. Use the pliers to tighten any loose jump rings. You will use the pliers again later in the fitting.

6. Place the bra base on a work surface, cups up and facing you. Use the safety pins to secure the drape to the upper edge, starting at the upper triangular point of the drape cup, pinning that to the upper point of the bra base. Do both points first. Work your way down each side to the center where the cups meet, one pin on each side at one time. You will have to finagle it a little to get it even.

Front View:

Back View (ignore safety pins under the armpits for now:

7. Try it on. Adjust drape. Repeat until happy.
8. Start pinning the top of the drape along the cups under the armpits.
9. Try it on. Adjust drape. Repeat until happy. This part took the longest for me, as the drape may need surgery (told you about the pliers!) to fit properly. And, at some point you will need to use the pliers to cut the chains off of the drape. You can decide whether to run some chain along the straps or just keep it bare. Your bra, your aesthetic. I have draped them both ways; and, since I am a cabaret dancer, I hate a nekkid bra back. So, I either have to drape the chains, too, or wear a vest over it.
10. Commence sewing! This is easy, really. If you have draped and pinned properly, you only need to sew to attach the top of the drape to the top of the base. Find the "chain" that runs along the top of the drape, making the shape of the drape. You will sew this to the base in strong stitches that have some give to them -- you want the coins to move! Use HEAVY thread (upholstery, button hole) to make a stitch that attaches the drape chain to the upper edge of the cup. This is the only sewing your will do, running a seam that starts at the points of the bra cup where it meets the strap to the center. Repeat on the other side, then along the cups under the armpits. When sewing, only do one or two stitches at a time and knot in between (coins cut thread). Stop and fit, adjust as needed. At the risk of repeating myself, DO NOT sew the drape completely to the bra, do not sew the bottom edge. Too much sewing or too-tight stitches will restrict coin movement and ruin the bra.

I made my base out of scraps and got my coin drape for about $30 USD. Belt ran about $30 as well. So, with only minor cussing and $70, I got a set I could have paid $100 and up for. Time well spent, so to say.

Finished product:


Enjoy!

Double Duty

First, apologies from the Practical Dancer. I had lofty, ambitious goals of regular posts that conveyed useful wisdom, all perfectly organized and locked down in files saved to my hard drive, perfectly edited and back up copies ready in case of the catastrophic event of a blog move.

Sigh.

The Practical Dancer has a day job. I have a "second job" of being a Dance Student, Dancer, and troupe member. I am a Wife and a Mom. I read incessantly about dance online. I sew whenever I can, and I have a house to clean, bills to pay, and cats to pet. And, I have some lingering New Year's resolution about "priorities." Like you, I have "a lot on my plate."

It is more important to me that I get these ideas out here for you than that I get them captured permanently on my overstuffed hard drive. Welcome to the new me, fast and loose, and forgive me for being gone for so long.

Now, for the post.

What I have learned in my overstuffed life is that in order to do fun things like go to workshops, the beach, or to visit family for the weekend, you have to spend a fair amount of time traveling. Time one could spend dancing or sewing. I used to just use that time to *think* about dancing or sewing, accomplishing about 2% of good in the process. Then, I learned a simple trick from the Great and Powerful Ozma -- you can, under the right circumstances, multitask! Since a fair amount of my travel is with someone else driving, I began to take projects along with me. Most of our sewing is hand work anyway. Why not knock it out when you are sitting down in a fixed environment for a while?

I made a set of gorgeous beaded sleeves on the 4 round trips to Baltimore when we were buying our boat. That would have been about 30 tedious hours if squeezed in "at home;" but, captive in the car, it helped time to fly by. (Still need to dance in those darned things.)

I almost completely made two little ruffled arm drapes on the way to and from a workshop. (Had to make the pattern and cut them out ahead of time, and do some of the finishing at home on the machine.)

And, yesterday, I worked out the pattern for appliques on a bra and got them sewed on in the 5 hours it took to go and visit family.

The hardest parts of this are 1) breaking down your projects into tasks that can be done in a car (while someone else is driving!) and that also fit the time you will spend in the car; and, 2) knocking out the pre-work and carefully packing so that you have what you need. You will get better at this with practice, as I have. Next thing you know, you will look forward to road trips and waiting rooms as time to sew.

Basic Cover-up Pattern

Christmas Greetings, all! A few months back, a member of Bellydanceforums.net asked about making a cover up. It took a few months to find the time to capture it in writing; but, here it is, my Christmas gift to you, in (hopefully) a printable pdf format.

Please let me know if you catch any errors in the pattern, and I shall correct them.

Regards,

Anala

Took an AMAZING costuming workshop!

Folks, I just took the most wonderful costuming workshop yesterday with the lovely Christina from Black Lotus Clothing! I have to just gush -- she was informative, encouraging, clear, and so sweet! I had only seen her creations online, but you have to see them in person to truly appreciate her art. While I am admittedly not that Tribal, and not that Tribal Fusion, I found a lot of her design concepts are appropriate to all costuming needs. And, considering how much I LOVED the movie "Pretty in Pink" as a teenager, I really loved her work and her thinking.

She provided tips that universally apply: how to get inspiration, how to get to costuming quickly, how to repurpose and upcycle (my favorite), AND how to see beyond the surface when contemplating a garment at a thrift store in order to bring out the gold from the scrap hill (or, cover up the scrap hill with gold). She has only recently started teaching this workshop; but, I can assure you she is a natural teacher. She provided so much material in two hours that I need to go back and study my copious notes. I will never look at clearance rack or thrift store aisle the same way again -- and, I will NOT be afraid to rip rather than cut, to throw everything in a pile and see what works, to stand in front of a mirror and fit a garment that is hanging on me! She is fast and loose, full of infectious creative energy, and definitely someone that can inspire! If she is in your area (or, if you are close to her), you OWE it to yourself to study with her!

Choli conversion

A while back, I put up a post on how to convert a camisole to a bra and sash set. You can use similar principles to make a top (tunic, blouse, or other shirt) into a choli.

Method 1:
If you can't sew and are desperate, take a short T-shirt that fits snugly and carefully tuck it up under your bra. Use another method if it looks lumpy or you will be dancing close to your audience (like a restaurant). Have a friend pin it in place.

Method 2 (minimal sewing):
1. Obtain a top that you like the look of, such as a black velvet (for a basic choli) or one in a color or pattern you like.
2. Put the top on, raise your arms high over your heed, have a friend mark 1" BELOW where the shirt hits your bra band under each arm.
3. Take the top off and lay it flat on a table or other surface you can mark or cut on.
4. Mark a straight line between the marks on each side.
5. Cut along the line CAREFULLY.
6. Try on the top to see where the new bottom hem falls.
7. Baste on pretty trim or ribbon - Heavier trim will help keep the hem "down" when you dance – this and some fringe can keep your performance “G” rated!

Method 3 (more sewing skill required):
1. Obtain a top that you like the look of, such as a black velvet (for a basic choli) or one in a color or pattern you like.
2. If you want to add any gathers to enhance the bustline, do it now (before proceeding to the steps below).
3. Put the top on, raise your arms high over your heed, have a friend mark 2.5" BELOW where the shirt hits your bra band under each arm.
4. Take the top off and lay it flat on a table or other surface you can mark or cut on.
5. Mark a straight line between the marks on each side.
6. Cut along the line CAREFULLY.
7. Try on the top to see where the new bottom hem falls. If it looks like you have enough fabric to add an elastic band, continue with the steps below; if not, go up to method #2, step 7.
8. Use a 3/4 inch to 1” band of elastic to make a bottom band, folding the fabric over to cover the band and sewing into place.
9. Wear with pride!

Any fabric that you cut off from the bottom of the “donor top” can still be used to make a sash or a belt.

Here are two versions; the black one on top uses method 2 (also adding trim to neck and cropped sleeves), while the bottom multicolored choli uses method 3.

North American Find Forecast: March 2009

The Christmas, Mardi Gras, and Valentine’s day holiday inventories are fading; while St. Patrick’s day, Easter and Prom season are on the rise. Spring is dawning here in the US, and here is your “forecast” for what you may find and convert to belly dance use in a store near you.



Red items: carry over from Valentine’s Day, and some Christmas. Price and availability are trending down. Look for: fabrics, jewelry, heart items that may embellish (think: appliqués, sequins, things that can be cut up and sewn on). Location: a clearance rack near you.

Emerald Greens: Some Christmas residuals may be out there, some Mardi Gras, but St. Patrick’s items are more likely. Prices will plummet, along with availability after March 17th. Look for: fabrics, some jewelry, embellishments will mostly be of bead variety. (No one really got into Mardi Gras around here this year due to the recession, so there may be beads aplenty.) Also, may find Purples and Golds. Location: a clearance rack near you.

Pastels: Easter and Prom are converging. Availability will rise over the next few weeks; prices will not drop until mid April. Look for: fabrics (satin, chiffon, silks), complimentary jewelry, and some convertible scarves (related posts coming soon). Embellishments may be in the form of appliqués, sequins, and brooches. Keep an eye out for shoes and sandals (again, related posts coming soon). Location: front of the store, where the “in season” items are kept.

Thrift store report: Some post-holiday and winter clearance on Red, Greens, and velvets. Remember, most thrift stores discount after 4 to 6 weeks in inventory, so seasonal finds are not as common as discounts based on time-in-inventory. Trending high on pre-Prom and pre-Easter (both price and availability). Also, continue to look for belly dance friendly items from years past: bohemian skirts, shirts with Beledi sleeves, embellished tanks -- these items will continue to surface over time; but, availability will always be “target of opportunity” due to the dependence on donations.

*This post title was edited on 3/18/09, as it really applies to North American seasons. Some holidays may be celebrated internationally, so you may be able follow those leads if you are one of my international readers. Feel free to comment if you have thoughts on this matter.

Harem Pant conversion

There are some things I am willing to splurge on: a well beaded bra and belt, a good silk veil, a beledi dress that is a “one-step costume.” But, harem pants do not fall on that list. Here is how I made a pair for about $6US and some tips so you can, too.

When shopping, start at a thrift store or clearance rack. (“I never met a clearance rack I did not like!”) Then:

1) Look for the for a pair of loose fitting, elastic waist pants in a material that breathes and a color that is USEFUL to your wardrobe. Washable fabrics are even better. I was very lucky and found this pair of black rayon “beach pants” for $4.99US at the local Good---- store.

2) Bring or borrow a rubber band or pony tail tie. You will need it to try the pants on.
3) Check to see that the pants are at least 5 inches longer than you need. I am lucky, because I am short; so, this happens more often than not.
4) Also, be sure that the pants have a full leg to the ankle.
5) When you try the pants on, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. This will let you see how the pants will look if you modify them. If you like the look, buy the pants; if not, keep looking.
6) There are two methods of converting these to harem pants:
a. NO SEW: When you need to wear them, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. Betcha didn’t think it would be that easy, huh?
b. Some sewing: 1) cut a piece of elastic that is about .5 to 1 inch bigger than the circumference of your ankle. This allows room for overlap and keeps the cuff from being too tight. 2) stitch the ends of the elastic together. 3) turn the pants inside out. 4) slip the elastic band over the cuff of the pants. 5) fold the cuff of the pants over the band and stitch into place.
7) Save the money you spend for something more valuable to YOU!