Choli conversion

A while back, I put up a post on how to convert a camisole to a bra and sash set. You can use similar principles to make a top (tunic, blouse, or other shirt) into a choli.

Method 1:
If you can't sew and are desperate, take a short T-shirt that fits snugly and carefully tuck it up under your bra. Use another method if it looks lumpy or you will be dancing close to your audience (like a restaurant). Have a friend pin it in place.

Method 2 (minimal sewing):
1. Obtain a top that you like the look of, such as a black velvet (for a basic choli) or one in a color or pattern you like.
2. Put the top on, raise your arms high over your heed, have a friend mark 1" BELOW where the shirt hits your bra band under each arm.
3. Take the top off and lay it flat on a table or other surface you can mark or cut on.
4. Mark a straight line between the marks on each side.
5. Cut along the line CAREFULLY.
6. Try on the top to see where the new bottom hem falls.
7. Baste on pretty trim or ribbon - Heavier trim will help keep the hem "down" when you dance – this and some fringe can keep your performance “G” rated!

Method 3 (more sewing skill required):
1. Obtain a top that you like the look of, such as a black velvet (for a basic choli) or one in a color or pattern you like.
2. If you want to add any gathers to enhance the bustline, do it now (before proceeding to the steps below).
3. Put the top on, raise your arms high over your heed, have a friend mark 2.5" BELOW where the shirt hits your bra band under each arm.
4. Take the top off and lay it flat on a table or other surface you can mark or cut on.
5. Mark a straight line between the marks on each side.
6. Cut along the line CAREFULLY.
7. Try on the top to see where the new bottom hem falls. If it looks like you have enough fabric to add an elastic band, continue with the steps below; if not, go up to method #2, step 7.
8. Use a 3/4 inch to 1” band of elastic to make a bottom band, folding the fabric over to cover the band and sewing into place.
9. Wear with pride!

Any fabric that you cut off from the bottom of the “donor top” can still be used to make a sash or a belt.

Here are two versions; the black one on top uses method 2 (also adding trim to neck and cropped sleeves), while the bottom multicolored choli uses method 3.

Recommended Readings – Beauty for the stage!

(a.k.a. “I couldn’t have said it better myself!”)

There are many things that I am still learning. After scouting the Internet to research a few things, here are some other resources that I wanted to share with my readers. I hope these links help you learn new things that benefit your dance!

First, here is a wonderful post on WHY you should wear stage makeup: http://www.kawakib.com/page-43.html

Next, here is an amazing instructional video on how to apply dramatic eye makeup. I used the principles in this tutorial this past Saturday and received rave reviews! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ILuAlxVUU4&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fbellydancingdiva%2Ecom%2F2009%2F06%2Fstage%2Dmakeup%2Dand%2Dhair%2Dtips%2F&feature=player_embedded

Makeup alone will only get you partway to the stage. Here is a magnificent instructional clip on how to keep ornaments in your hair: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFj8IJ2CvUg&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ethegypsykiss%2Ecom%2Fhowtobellydancefreeclips%2Ehtml&feature=player_embedded

And, if you like braids, then this site will give you both instruction and ideas:
http://www.dreamweaverbraiding.com/Braiding_Tips.htm

Please note: All URL’s link to pages by other artists who have full copyright to the materials therein. These are provided as a referral without making any claim of ownership of the content. The best way to honor an artist is to support them in their art!

Safe Fan Transport

About a year ago, as a door prize in a fan workshop, I won a gorgeous feather fan -- turquoise blue with peacock accents. I have wanted to dance with it since; but, one fear kept me from doing so: how could I safely take it to and from venues? After some searching, I found a relatively inexpensive solution that will repel water and keep the fan from getting crushed. I purchased a zippered portfolio case from my local arts and crafts store. It has plastic sides that will keep water out, the shape is a broad, skinny box with a handle for easy carrying, and the shape will keep the fan so that the weight is on the fan’s base, not the feathers. I got my husband to rustle up some out of date foam-board (dry mount) advertising from work and stuck a piece on either side of the case to reinforce it a little more. The case has big pocket on one side and elastic straps that cross in an X on the other (like some suitcases) – both of these features hold the foam board securely and act as more cushioning for the fan.

My gorgeous fan (a handmade Dorma original!) will finally make its debut next week.

Quick tummy cover ideas

I put these in a post on orientaldancer and wanted to share them here, too.

If you want to cover your tummy, here are some ideas.
1. Wear a leotard, alone or under a top.
2. Buy panty hose that are at least 2 sizes too big, that are NOT control top, and that have as few seams as possible. Pull them up all the way to your bra and pin them thoroughly (use about 8 pins or more). Wear a top over the bra and improvised bodystocking. You can cut off the legs if you want. (Flourish of the veil to Scheherzade for that one!)
3. Wear a long fitted shirt.
4. Wear a tank top -- but, I recommend pinning it to your underwear so that it does not ride up as you dance. Again, use about 6-8 pins.
5. Wear a shirt that can be folded / tied up. Then embellish with a "tummy drape": a pretty necklace, crocheted scarf, or other pretty, dangly thing hung beneath your bra line

And whatever you do, SMILE! It will draw their eyes up.

Checklist for performing

You may have seen these on other middle eastern / belly dance / raqs sharki sites; but, it always seems to be quick list or product promotion event rather than a how to. So, here are some suggested questions to help YOU build YOUR list. Then, I’ll share my own.

Questions to ask yourself:
1. Where will I be performing? (Can I finish getting ready there or should I leave my home in full costume? Will you need shoes? Was there a special request that requires something I need to bring, like zills, extra hip scarves, etc.?)
2. What will I do when it is my turn to perform? (Do I have my music? Do I have a backup plan? So I need props like a veil, cane, etc.? Is this a group number that requires specific costume parts or accessories?)
3. Am I in charge? (Do I need to bring a CD player? What about an extension cord? Will I need glasses to read those nicely labeled CD’s the dancers will bring? Do I need to bring anything for my dancers, like water, band aids, etc.?)
4. What will I do after the show? (Do I need a change of clothes? Oh, yeah – do I need a real bra, then? Do I need a bag to hold all of this stuff? And, do I need a UHAUL to carry it?)

Ask yourself these questions every time you get ready to perform and you will cover 90% or more of what you need.

Then, one time, allow yourself an extra 10 minutes to get ready for a gig. As you get ready, have a way to write down EVERYTHING that you use or need for the performance. I put my list on the last page of my student notebook, which I take with me when I go to classes, to out of town workshops, etc. This list will help you not only when you are getting ready for your ordinary halfa, it will also be very useful if you have to pack to travel for a performance.

Here is my comprehensive list, which reflects my priorities, now that I look at it!

Costume items:
Cover-up
Bra / top
Belt / scarf
Skirt / pants
Veil
Shoes
Underpants that don’t show
Bra that doesn’t show
Earrings
Necklace
Bracelets
Rings
Anklets
Zills
Hairclips / bands
Hair accessories
Props: cane, sword, fan, candles

Cosmetics:
Powder
Mascara
Lash comb
Eyeliner
Brow makeup
Lipstick – base
Lipstick – top coat
Glitter
Hair brush
Hair spray
Styling paste
Styling tools
Eyelashes
Lash glue
Tweezers
Toothpicks (for the item below and the lashes)
Bindis
Mirror
Eye shadow
Eye makeup remover
Qtips
Cotton balls
Baby oil (the only thing that takes off my lipstick!)


“Insurance Items”
Double stick tape (a wonder on a roll!)
Sewing kit
Safety pins
Bobby pins
Does anything need batteries? (for cameras and candles, people!)
Music
Backup music
3rd choice!
Bag to hold it all
Hangers
Bodystocking
Lint roller
Razor scissors
Pain meds
Bandaids
Nailfile
Sharpie marker
Camera and film
Change of clothes and shoes
Tampons or pads

Now, I don’t use every item every time, but I do review this list and the questions above every time. Make your own list that works for you – it is the creation and the review of the list that makes the difference, not just what’s on it!

Happy dancing!

Your Performance CD

“Wait,” you say, “I thought this was a costuming blog!”

Well, it is; but, it is also a blog about organization and saving money. And, when you take a whole CD full of songs (store bought or burned) with you to perform, you will not appear organized and you will risk losing money (especially if it is a CD you purchased).

So, let’s talk about the CD you take with you when you perform. Please do not take an original. Performances are tense for everyone – and, the person who runs the music gets the jitters, too. Any of the following things could happen:
- you are so full of adrenaline after the performance that you forget to get your CD back after the show
- you get it back, but then lose it while you changing out of your costume
- the person running the music keeps it
- or, they accidentally give it to someone else
- someone takes it (intentionally or not)
- it breaks
- it gets stuck in the player (This happened to me the FIRST time I performed at a hafla. The venue came with a player, but no one knew how to use it. 2 CD’s got stuck in at the same time – luckily, no permanent damage happened!)


If you take a COPY versus the ORIGINAL, then you will still have the ORIGINAL at home even if something happens to the COPY. That is how the advice below will save you money.

Now that we have covered the virtues of using a COPY, here is why it is important to label it: If you do not label your music, it looks like everybody else’s music. And, that means the emcee could put the wrong disc in, causing another dancer to hear your CD when it is their turn and just keep dancing. (I have seen this happen!) Or, you hear the wrong song from your multi-track disc and just keep dancing. (I have seen this happen, too!)

Labeling ensures that your music is ready when it is your turn. Having only one song on the disc helps, too, because the more songs on the disc, the greater the likelihood that the wrong one will be queued up. On your COPY disc, include ONLY the song you are dancing to. Then, label the disc with the following information, in this order

1. YOUR DANCE NAME
2. (Your real name)
3. The song name
4. The duration of the song

Here is why:
1. YOUR DANCE NAME should be in all caps, large font, so that it can be read in dim light through false eyelashes.
2. (Your real name should be in parentheses, in case that is the only way others know you and so you don’t get introduced that way.)
3. The song name is there because you will develop a collection of these and you want to quickly sort through and find the one you want when a last minute opportunity arises.
4. The duration of the song should be there because sometimes you want a longer number, and sometimes you don’t!

These simple steps will help you be (and appear) more organized. A little organization prior to the performance will greatly contribute to how your actual performance goes!

- this post was inspired by recent events. ;)

If the shoe fits . . . dance in it!

Our choices as to what we wear when we dance are personal, and they are a reflection of our personalities – our taste and our needs. When performing, many dancers go barefoot, whether out of a sense of “tradition” or out of a desire to control movement. There are times, though, when shoes are a very good idea. When I perform, I will often take along shoes I can perform in, just in case there are hazards on my stage.

What hazards, you ask:
1. Splinters on a wooden stage
2. Beads or coins from a prior dancer
3. Broken glass on the floor of a restaurant
4. God knows what else on that same floor (ewwwwww!)

Most times, a pair of ballet slippers will suffice. If that is all you want, I highly recommend a pair with at least one strand of elastic across the instep and a split sole; these traits will increase your flexibility and keep your shoes on and comfortable when you are in relevee. However, sometimes, you might want something that can easily transition from the parking lot to the dance floor, and that is where repurposing shoes comes in handy.

When you look for footwear that can become dancewear, the things to look for are: a slick sole, a good fit, and a flexible color that will blend with your wardrobe. Pretty similar to how you buy shoes anyway, right? – except for the slick part, so let’s start there.

Slick: When you dance, you actually want your foot to slide easily. A slick sole will pivot easily on carpet and keep you from putting too much torque on your knee. This is one time where a slick sole is a good thing. Look for smooth soles, preferably made of leather.

Fit: If the shoe is uncomfortable when you buy it, it will be downright miserable when you are anxiously waiting to dance in the evening. Most shoe shopping advice cautions that your feet swell during the day; so, shop in the evening, just as you would for regular shoes. Look for something that moves with your foot, allowing you to goe up on your toes without coming off. And, there is no rule that you cannot add a small piece of elastic just as you would to a pair of ballet slippers.

Color: If you look at your dance wardrobe from a distance, what color links most of the pieces? Chances are, you are either a gold or a silver person. Looking for shoes in one of these colors will not only allow you greater flexibility in how you partner them with costumes, the colors will also blend better with most skin tones than, say, black, red, etc. Most dancers want a shoe to blend with their skin tone, lengthening the leg. So, pick a color that works with you clothes and your goals.

Once you have a pair in hand (or, on the foot as the case may be), practice in them! Get very used to dancing in them before you perform. (This is good advice for any costume piece, by the way.) Modify them as needed to make them comfortable and functional. And, if you add trim, remember that the more you add the more you narrow how you can match them.

North American Find Forecast: March 2009

The Christmas, Mardi Gras, and Valentine’s day holiday inventories are fading; while St. Patrick’s day, Easter and Prom season are on the rise. Spring is dawning here in the US, and here is your “forecast” for what you may find and convert to belly dance use in a store near you.



Red items: carry over from Valentine’s Day, and some Christmas. Price and availability are trending down. Look for: fabrics, jewelry, heart items that may embellish (think: appliqués, sequins, things that can be cut up and sewn on). Location: a clearance rack near you.

Emerald Greens: Some Christmas residuals may be out there, some Mardi Gras, but St. Patrick’s items are more likely. Prices will plummet, along with availability after March 17th. Look for: fabrics, some jewelry, embellishments will mostly be of bead variety. (No one really got into Mardi Gras around here this year due to the recession, so there may be beads aplenty.) Also, may find Purples and Golds. Location: a clearance rack near you.

Pastels: Easter and Prom are converging. Availability will rise over the next few weeks; prices will not drop until mid April. Look for: fabrics (satin, chiffon, silks), complimentary jewelry, and some convertible scarves (related posts coming soon). Embellishments may be in the form of appliqués, sequins, and brooches. Keep an eye out for shoes and sandals (again, related posts coming soon). Location: front of the store, where the “in season” items are kept.

Thrift store report: Some post-holiday and winter clearance on Red, Greens, and velvets. Remember, most thrift stores discount after 4 to 6 weeks in inventory, so seasonal finds are not as common as discounts based on time-in-inventory. Trending high on pre-Prom and pre-Easter (both price and availability). Also, continue to look for belly dance friendly items from years past: bohemian skirts, shirts with Beledi sleeves, embellished tanks -- these items will continue to surface over time; but, availability will always be “target of opportunity” due to the dependence on donations.

*This post title was edited on 3/18/09, as it really applies to North American seasons. Some holidays may be celebrated internationally, so you may be able follow those leads if you are one of my international readers. Feel free to comment if you have thoughts on this matter.

Street Skirts Hit the Stage

Isn’t it interesting how everything is more expensive when it’s “for bellydance?” By that, I mean that a simple tiered skirt hangs forlorn on a department store rack at some big-box discount store with a price tag less than $20US, while its not so distant cousin sits packed in a vendor’s truck, waiting to be displayed at an upcoming workshop with a price tag that is 3 to 5 times higher . . .



Folks, skirts are skirts. There are some that are elaborate enough to warrant vendor prices; and, you will not find those out in the wild. But, if you know what to look for, and where to look, you can buy performance worthy gems at clearance rack (“I never met a clearance rack I didn’t like!”) prices. Here is how.

Buy it to fit how you will wear it. That is, street skirts tend to be worn on the waist, and rarely fall below mid-calf; performance skirts need to fall on the hip and extend to the ankle. When buying, try them on so that the “waist” falls at your hip – look to see if the hem falls deep enough to cover the ankle and watch for “hip bumps” in the side seams. (Some skirts are shaped to curve around your hips – that doesn’t quite work when you slide them down to “below the belt.”)

Think of the possibilities. A plain black velvet skirt with a swirl panel (some call it a petal panel) shape may only look ho-hum; stick on some sequin trim along the seams and you have a bit of pizzazz! (FYI, slide the skirt over a piece of cardboard – I used my folded up cutting board. It will keep you from accidentally sewing the front to the back.)




When you get it home, try it on – with your costumes! I literally have “dress up parties” with my young daughter where we see which of Mommy’s pieces work with her new finds. And, when you buy skirts retail (vs. from dance vendors), you can often leverage a return policy.



Buy what you will ACTUALLY wear. I have a pink cotton full skirt with cute little shisha mirrors sewn on that seemed like a great idea at the time. I only wore it to class twice. I’m just not that tribal, I guess.

Basic Bedlah / Beledi Dress Storage

Your costume is an investment – normally, several hundred dollars (in $US, at least). Here are a few basic tips to help protect that investment:

1) Store them flat – do not hang. Beads have weight, and weight stretches fabrics. A dress that fits perfectly when you buy it can mysteriously grow 3 inches while hanging. Unless you really enjoy altering beaded hems, don’t hang it.
2) Store them in a protective environment – ideally, an acid free box. My personal preference is an acid free photo box. I am lucky in that I am small busted, so a photo box that sells for about $3.50US (on sale) can hold at least one half (top or bottom) of a bedlah; some beledi dresses fit in there as well. Larger boxes can be had at higher prices.
a. Why acid free? Acid eats fabric. ‘nuff said?
b. How do I fold them? Let the shape of your costume guide you: fold the belt to follow the curves of your hips. Gently place them in (fringe first), then ease the rest of the belt in.
c. How big of a box do I need? I base it on my bras – the box should be wide enough that my bra can easily fit with the cups up (i.e. the box needs to be about as wide as your shoulders.
d. They don’t make boxes big enough – what do I do?!? (AND) I really don’t want to spend money – what are my other options? Men’s shoe boxes and boot boxes (men’s or women’s) are a wonderful, larger, and often free alternative.
3) Throw in a little extra insurance – remember, Silica Gel is your new best friend!
4) Take the container with you when you perform. I tuck mine in a bag along with my change of clothes. This allows me to tuck my costume away in its protective shell after I do my quick change, protecting the beads and sequins from the ravages of transport. And, I keep a small zip-top bag in the box to hold jewelry. (Learned that one when a necklace “married” the fringe of a bra after one show.) Just remember to let your costume air a bit before tucking away for long-term storage.

Harem Pant conversion

There are some things I am willing to splurge on: a well beaded bra and belt, a good silk veil, a beledi dress that is a “one-step costume.” But, harem pants do not fall on that list. Here is how I made a pair for about $6US and some tips so you can, too.

When shopping, start at a thrift store or clearance rack. (“I never met a clearance rack I did not like!”) Then:

1) Look for the for a pair of loose fitting, elastic waist pants in a material that breathes and a color that is USEFUL to your wardrobe. Washable fabrics are even better. I was very lucky and found this pair of black rayon “beach pants” for $4.99US at the local Good---- store.

2) Bring or borrow a rubber band or pony tail tie. You will need it to try the pants on.
3) Check to see that the pants are at least 5 inches longer than you need. I am lucky, because I am short; so, this happens more often than not.
4) Also, be sure that the pants have a full leg to the ankle.
5) When you try the pants on, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. This will let you see how the pants will look if you modify them. If you like the look, buy the pants; if not, keep looking.
6) There are two methods of converting these to harem pants:
a. NO SEW: When you need to wear them, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. Betcha didn’t think it would be that easy, huh?
b. Some sewing: 1) cut a piece of elastic that is about .5 to 1 inch bigger than the circumference of your ankle. This allows room for overlap and keeps the cuff from being too tight. 2) stitch the ends of the elastic together. 3) turn the pants inside out. 4) slip the elastic band over the cuff of the pants. 5) fold the cuff of the pants over the band and stitch into place.
7) Save the money you spend for something more valuable to YOU!

Camisole conversion

If is one law about costuming, it would probably say, “You can spend money, or you can spend time.” Here is a sewing project for those of you with more of the latter.

Moderate sewing skills needed.
Estimated project time, 4 hours.
Estimated total cost: $20US

Start with one off-the-rack camisole. I found this one on a clearance rack (“I never met a clearance rack I didn’t like!”) for about $7US. This one featured an underbust seam and gathered cups, making bra conversion easy.

What it looked like when I started:



Steps for bra:
1) Carefully cut the camisole to follow a line one inch below the cups, so that you have enough fabric to fold up and under the bra line.
a. Note 1: It is better to cut further down (reducing the remaining fabric that can become your scarf or belt) than to skip on the bra. Trust me on this one.
b. Note 2: if your cami has two layers (mine was thin silk and slippery satin), it is a VERY good idea to pin or tack-stitch the layers together just below the line you will cut. This will keep them aligned when you make your skirt. Again, trust me on this one.
2) Since this cami was silk, I sewed some grosgrain ribbon along the raw edge of the fabric. (By the way, this is one way to recover if you cut too high in step one.)
3) Sew bra cups into the top if desired.
4) Fold the bottom edge of fabric up and under. Sew into place.

5) I wanted this bra top to fit tightly, so I added elastic along the back from side seam to side seam.

6) I then covered the elastic in craft felt. Any soft, non-fraying fabric that is sweat friendly will do.

7) Embellish as desired. Here, I made some tassels accented with sequins, I made some bows out of trim, and I covered the straps with the same trim.**

Steps for scarf / skirt:*
1) If you cami had two layers of fabric, align and pin or tack-stitch them together.
2) If desired, sew some grosgrain ribbon along the raw edge of the fabric.
3) Fold the top edge of the fabric over and under to make a hip band. Sew into place, adding elastic if you wish.

4) Embellish as desired.

Here is the finished product:


* You can also cover a belt if you have enough fabric and patience. I did not.
** There are those of you who will roll your eyes and say “Christmas trim, not AGAIN!” Please understand that this is not intended to be a “professional costume.” This is intended to be a costume for haflas or informal performances, made by those who are new to performing and who do have more time than money to spend on costumes.

Silica Gel is your new Best Friend

You have probably thrown away thousands of these little packs in your life; but you may never want to do that again. They come in boxes of shoes, with furniture, in new purses, even in medicines and some foods. And, their purpose is to KEEP THINGS DRY.

As a dancer, you have costumes and accessories that you want to protect from sweat, humidity, errant water bottles, etc. If you were to tuck one of these little marvels in the box where you store your bedlah (because, yes, you want to store it in a box – look for a future post on that topic), then it will silently protect your beautiful and expensive costume from damage. And, if you were to be sure you took a large one along when you perform, you can make those quick costume changes and just stow the costume with the packet (for a few hours at least) without worrying about damage from perspiration. My family is now trained to save every one they find, so that all of my costumes can be protected. I even keep one in my dance bag that I take to class – because ballet shoes can harbor moisture that can damage veils and hip scarves, too.

So, only follow half of the directions on the packet. “Do NOT EAT!” But, please do not throw them away!