Time to Set a Stage . . .

Here it is – the first show YOU are helping to put on!  You may be a teacher, part of a troupe, or just hosting an event for the first time.  And, just as you may fret over what costume you should wear, you are probably fretting over what costume your STAGE should wear!  After all, it may not be a “stage” at all.  If it is, you are lucky, because it has lighting (of some sort) and a back drop.

If it is not, you may be staring at a cinderblock wall and a gymnasium floor.

So, how to dress it up?

Regarding the gym floor, please resist the temptation to put down rugs, veils, etc.  Your dancers WILL slip.  It is dangerous.  Draw the eye up instead with a backdrop.  We’ll talk a little more about floor options later.

So, how do I make a backdrop?

•         EASY WAY: Drape veils behind the dancers, using whatever ledge, window, or trim you can.  Use pretty, but not valuable veils.  Secure with thumbtacks.

o   Pros: Fast, simple, reusable, no storage needed

o   Cons: veil damage, wall damage (Do check with your venue to ensure thumbtacks are OK!), sudden veil failure behind someone’s otherwise perfect performance . . .

• SLIGHTLY HARDER, BUT NOT IMPOSSIBLE: Use a portable clothing rack and your speakers.  Place the rack in between the speakers.  Drape pretty fabric over them to cover.  Use LOTS of safety pins to secure it in place. IF your fabric is NOT flammable, drape some Christmas lights behind for sparkle. 

o   Pros: Good for venues that do not allow thumbtacks.  Good if you have vending in the day, hafla at night.  (You were using that clothes rack to vend anyway, right?!?)

o   Cons: LOTS of safety pins, like 5 per yard.  LOTS of fabric.  Some storage needed.  And, time to assemble and disassemble.

•         REQUIRES PLANNING AHEAD AND COMMITMENT TO A VENUE: Removable, reusable backdrop based on your location.  When I was in a troupe, we held several events at the church I attended, which, while it had a good space, also had windows that distracted behind the dancers.  Cars’ lights would shine in, the sun would muck with the camera’s focus, etc.  So, I measured the windows (which conveniently had a ledge over the wall between the windows) and use some skills learned by ripping apart custom window treatments to make matching skirts for me and a friend [yes, we called them the Scarlet O’Hara skirts!) to make a very simple swag and drape backdrop. The vertical panels were wrapped over boards, which lay on the ledge.  A staple gun secured the fabric to the board.  (BTW, you should be thinking, “So THAT is what I do with those ten yards of [whatever] I bought [whenever] and didn’t make a costume from it!” Use that fabric for backdrops!)  Then, I used about 1.5 the length of the verticals to drape fabric in between as a swag, again stapling the ends.

o   Pros: Planning around your venue allows you to “solve” problems with it.  But, you have to both plan well and have the skills to build what you need.

o   Cons: Storage of backdrop between shows.  And, what if you never use that venue again???

•          PIPE AND DRAPE: The classic pipe and drape (best how-to I could find is here: http://www.smittenby.net/2012/04/06/1832/) is a theatrical staple.  You can build the frame and then reuse it time and again with different backdrop fabrics.

o   Pros: looks great, converts any space.

o   Cons: Requires measuring, cutting, thinking about parts.  And storage.  For the committed event producer or the completely insane (like me).

Now that you have a backdrop (and, stick with neutral colors, as too dark or too busy will drown out the dancer), you need to light the stage.  There are how-to’s for making stage lights; but, I found using a portable work light such as http://www.lowes.com/pd_394369-40642-UT-1002_0__?productId=3699586&Ntt=work+light&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dwork%2Blight&facetInfo= worked just fine.  You can even get ones on stands, for which your videographer will thank you.

•         Pros: Inexpensive, practical, and reusable around the house.
•      Cons: Any stage light will get HOT.  Keep away from costumes, spins, and children.  Bulbs do not last more than 5-8 hours and shatter when touched.

And, as a videographer, I can say that there is no challenge greater than an undefined dance space.  Dancers will go on safari after the one smile or cute kid in the audience, leaving the video full of the backs of heads and chairs.  How can you solve this?  Define the dance space by laying out some kind of frame – but, make it dancer friendly.  After seeing a few youtube videos with Christmas lights around the stage, I tried that.  A few dancers, including myself, came dangerously close to stepping on  the bulbs.  Plan B: back to Lowes, where I found the 8 foot long clear plastic tubes used to cover florescent bulbs. I got about 4 of them and wrangled them into the cart.  (This may be a good time to go measure your car and find out if you can get them in there, too.)  Then, I went to the plumbing section and got 2 right angle connectors that fit over the tubes (I think they were 2 inch) and one straight connector, same size.  Then, I went to a store that had the white rope lights on sale (I LOVE after Christmas sales) and got enough rope lights to fill the tubes.  Some snaking and cussing later, and I had a nice “frame” for my stage that shouldn’t hurt a dancer if she stepped on it.  Some dancers complained; but, some dancers will ALWAYS complain.  Oh, and I will spare you the lecture on electrical resistance by saying that if you are framing 3 sides of a stage like I did, plan on having the cord of the stage come out both sides, so the non-corded ends meet in the middle.  (This avoids having the lights get dimmer as you look from one side of the stage to the other.

•          Pros: Relatively easy, looks cool
•       Cons: Measure your car and the storage space.  Not recommended with stick shifts. ;)

Best of luck with your own events!

Make your own cane!

(adapted from comments originally made on bellydanceforums.net)

Go to your local home improvement store and head to the dowel section(in the Lumber section) or to a craft store. Look at the 36" long (unless you are REALLY tall) and 1/2" diameter dowels and get one that is PERFECTLY STRAIGHT. You will have to go through the bin, but your investment of time will be rewarded. Cane can be used as is for practice, or embellished . . .

Tape Method:
If you don’t want to paint, stay in the home improvement store and either head to the electrical section for some colored tape or the heating section (where they sell ductwork) and get the silver, shiny tape they use to seal ducts. Wrap the cane in your tape of choice.

Painted method:
Now, if you are crafty, stop by the paint department and pick up 1 can of spray primer, one can of paint in the color of your choice (metallic paints are nice). On the way home, swing by a craft store and get some puff paint in complimentary colors. (Ok, the dollars are adding up to $15 to $20, but you could use the various paints when you invite your friends over for a cane painting party.) Then, stop by your favorite beverage emporium and get two six packs of a beverage AS LONG as it comes in a cardboard carrying unit (glass bottles), the kind with the little cutout that acts as a handle. When you get home, remove the beverages to the fridge and save the cardboard. (Caution: consumption of certain beverages in high quantities may impact the quality of the forthcoming paint job.) Now, when the outside temperature is suitable for painting, take the cardboard carriers outside with some newspaper, your dowel, and the spray paint. Set up the two carriers on the newspaper and slide the dowel through the cutouts so they act as a stand. (You may need to weight the beverage carriers with rocks or empty bottles.) Gingerly spray on the primer, let dry, rotate, and repeat. Same with the color of your choice (spray, dry, rotate, repeat). When dry, bring the whole mess inside to the kitchen counter and dribble on the puff paint on the cane in a pattern. There is no right or wrong, here.

You will now have a custom cane that can match your favorite outfit(s) and that is VERY practical. And, the puff paint ensures a good grip when performing. I have found that using a "dot" pattern to apply the paint helps to balance the cane on your head because the “dots” make little points that grab hair nicely.

Took an AMAZING costuming workshop!

Folks, I just took the most wonderful costuming workshop yesterday with the lovely Christina from Black Lotus Clothing! I have to just gush -- she was informative, encouraging, clear, and so sweet! I had only seen her creations online, but you have to see them in person to truly appreciate her art. While I am admittedly not that Tribal, and not that Tribal Fusion, I found a lot of her design concepts are appropriate to all costuming needs. And, considering how much I LOVED the movie "Pretty in Pink" as a teenager, I really loved her work and her thinking.

She provided tips that universally apply: how to get inspiration, how to get to costuming quickly, how to repurpose and upcycle (my favorite), AND how to see beyond the surface when contemplating a garment at a thrift store in order to bring out the gold from the scrap hill (or, cover up the scrap hill with gold). She has only recently started teaching this workshop; but, I can assure you she is a natural teacher. She provided so much material in two hours that I need to go back and study my copious notes. I will never look at clearance rack or thrift store aisle the same way again -- and, I will NOT be afraid to rip rather than cut, to throw everything in a pile and see what works, to stand in front of a mirror and fit a garment that is hanging on me! She is fast and loose, full of infectious creative energy, and definitely someone that can inspire! If she is in your area (or, if you are close to her), you OWE it to yourself to study with her!

Choli conversion

A while back, I put up a post on how to convert a camisole to a bra and sash set. You can use similar principles to make a top (tunic, blouse, or other shirt) into a choli.

Method 1:
If you can't sew and are desperate, take a short T-shirt that fits snugly and carefully tuck it up under your bra. Use another method if it looks lumpy or you will be dancing close to your audience (like a restaurant). Have a friend pin it in place.

Method 2 (minimal sewing):
1. Obtain a top that you like the look of, such as a black velvet (for a basic choli) or one in a color or pattern you like.
2. Put the top on, raise your arms high over your heed, have a friend mark 1" BELOW where the shirt hits your bra band under each arm.
3. Take the top off and lay it flat on a table or other surface you can mark or cut on.
4. Mark a straight line between the marks on each side.
5. Cut along the line CAREFULLY.
6. Try on the top to see where the new bottom hem falls.
7. Baste on pretty trim or ribbon - Heavier trim will help keep the hem "down" when you dance – this and some fringe can keep your performance “G” rated!

Method 3 (more sewing skill required):
1. Obtain a top that you like the look of, such as a black velvet (for a basic choli) or one in a color or pattern you like.
2. If you want to add any gathers to enhance the bustline, do it now (before proceeding to the steps below).
3. Put the top on, raise your arms high over your heed, have a friend mark 2.5" BELOW where the shirt hits your bra band under each arm.
4. Take the top off and lay it flat on a table or other surface you can mark or cut on.
5. Mark a straight line between the marks on each side.
6. Cut along the line CAREFULLY.
7. Try on the top to see where the new bottom hem falls. If it looks like you have enough fabric to add an elastic band, continue with the steps below; if not, go up to method #2, step 7.
8. Use a 3/4 inch to 1” band of elastic to make a bottom band, folding the fabric over to cover the band and sewing into place.
9. Wear with pride!

Any fabric that you cut off from the bottom of the “donor top” can still be used to make a sash or a belt.

Here are two versions; the black one on top uses method 2 (also adding trim to neck and cropped sleeves), while the bottom multicolored choli uses method 3.

Safe Fan Transport

About a year ago, as a door prize in a fan workshop, I won a gorgeous feather fan -- turquoise blue with peacock accents. I have wanted to dance with it since; but, one fear kept me from doing so: how could I safely take it to and from venues? After some searching, I found a relatively inexpensive solution that will repel water and keep the fan from getting crushed. I purchased a zippered portfolio case from my local arts and crafts store. It has plastic sides that will keep water out, the shape is a broad, skinny box with a handle for easy carrying, and the shape will keep the fan so that the weight is on the fan’s base, not the feathers. I got my husband to rustle up some out of date foam-board (dry mount) advertising from work and stuck a piece on either side of the case to reinforce it a little more. The case has big pocket on one side and elastic straps that cross in an X on the other (like some suitcases) – both of these features hold the foam board securely and act as more cushioning for the fan.

My gorgeous fan (a handmade Dorma original!) will finally make its debut next week.

Quick tummy cover ideas

I put these in a post on orientaldancer and wanted to share them here, too.

If you want to cover your tummy, here are some ideas.
1. Wear a leotard, alone or under a top.
2. Buy panty hose that are at least 2 sizes too big, that are NOT control top, and that have as few seams as possible. Pull them up all the way to your bra and pin them thoroughly (use about 8 pins or more). Wear a top over the bra and improvised bodystocking. You can cut off the legs if you want. (Flourish of the veil to Scheherzade for that one!)
3. Wear a long fitted shirt.
4. Wear a tank top -- but, I recommend pinning it to your underwear so that it does not ride up as you dance. Again, use about 6-8 pins.
5. Wear a shirt that can be folded / tied up. Then embellish with a "tummy drape": a pretty necklace, crocheted scarf, or other pretty, dangly thing hung beneath your bra line

And whatever you do, SMILE! It will draw their eyes up.

If the shoe fits . . . dance in it!

Our choices as to what we wear when we dance are personal, and they are a reflection of our personalities – our taste and our needs. When performing, many dancers go barefoot, whether out of a sense of “tradition” or out of a desire to control movement. There are times, though, when shoes are a very good idea. When I perform, I will often take along shoes I can perform in, just in case there are hazards on my stage.

What hazards, you ask:
1. Splinters on a wooden stage
2. Beads or coins from a prior dancer
3. Broken glass on the floor of a restaurant
4. God knows what else on that same floor (ewwwwww!)

Most times, a pair of ballet slippers will suffice. If that is all you want, I highly recommend a pair with at least one strand of elastic across the instep and a split sole; these traits will increase your flexibility and keep your shoes on and comfortable when you are in relevee. However, sometimes, you might want something that can easily transition from the parking lot to the dance floor, and that is where repurposing shoes comes in handy.

When you look for footwear that can become dancewear, the things to look for are: a slick sole, a good fit, and a flexible color that will blend with your wardrobe. Pretty similar to how you buy shoes anyway, right? – except for the slick part, so let’s start there.

Slick: When you dance, you actually want your foot to slide easily. A slick sole will pivot easily on carpet and keep you from putting too much torque on your knee. This is one time where a slick sole is a good thing. Look for smooth soles, preferably made of leather.

Fit: If the shoe is uncomfortable when you buy it, it will be downright miserable when you are anxiously waiting to dance in the evening. Most shoe shopping advice cautions that your feet swell during the day; so, shop in the evening, just as you would for regular shoes. Look for something that moves with your foot, allowing you to goe up on your toes without coming off. And, there is no rule that you cannot add a small piece of elastic just as you would to a pair of ballet slippers.

Color: If you look at your dance wardrobe from a distance, what color links most of the pieces? Chances are, you are either a gold or a silver person. Looking for shoes in one of these colors will not only allow you greater flexibility in how you partner them with costumes, the colors will also blend better with most skin tones than, say, black, red, etc. Most dancers want a shoe to blend with their skin tone, lengthening the leg. So, pick a color that works with you clothes and your goals.

Once you have a pair in hand (or, on the foot as the case may be), practice in them! Get very used to dancing in them before you perform. (This is good advice for any costume piece, by the way.) Modify them as needed to make them comfortable and functional. And, if you add trim, remember that the more you add the more you narrow how you can match them.

North American Find Forecast: March 2009

The Christmas, Mardi Gras, and Valentine’s day holiday inventories are fading; while St. Patrick’s day, Easter and Prom season are on the rise. Spring is dawning here in the US, and here is your “forecast” for what you may find and convert to belly dance use in a store near you.



Red items: carry over from Valentine’s Day, and some Christmas. Price and availability are trending down. Look for: fabrics, jewelry, heart items that may embellish (think: appliqués, sequins, things that can be cut up and sewn on). Location: a clearance rack near you.

Emerald Greens: Some Christmas residuals may be out there, some Mardi Gras, but St. Patrick’s items are more likely. Prices will plummet, along with availability after March 17th. Look for: fabrics, some jewelry, embellishments will mostly be of bead variety. (No one really got into Mardi Gras around here this year due to the recession, so there may be beads aplenty.) Also, may find Purples and Golds. Location: a clearance rack near you.

Pastels: Easter and Prom are converging. Availability will rise over the next few weeks; prices will not drop until mid April. Look for: fabrics (satin, chiffon, silks), complimentary jewelry, and some convertible scarves (related posts coming soon). Embellishments may be in the form of appliqués, sequins, and brooches. Keep an eye out for shoes and sandals (again, related posts coming soon). Location: front of the store, where the “in season” items are kept.

Thrift store report: Some post-holiday and winter clearance on Red, Greens, and velvets. Remember, most thrift stores discount after 4 to 6 weeks in inventory, so seasonal finds are not as common as discounts based on time-in-inventory. Trending high on pre-Prom and pre-Easter (both price and availability). Also, continue to look for belly dance friendly items from years past: bohemian skirts, shirts with Beledi sleeves, embellished tanks -- these items will continue to surface over time; but, availability will always be “target of opportunity” due to the dependence on donations.

*This post title was edited on 3/18/09, as it really applies to North American seasons. Some holidays may be celebrated internationally, so you may be able follow those leads if you are one of my international readers. Feel free to comment if you have thoughts on this matter.

Street Skirts Hit the Stage

Isn’t it interesting how everything is more expensive when it’s “for bellydance?” By that, I mean that a simple tiered skirt hangs forlorn on a department store rack at some big-box discount store with a price tag less than $20US, while its not so distant cousin sits packed in a vendor’s truck, waiting to be displayed at an upcoming workshop with a price tag that is 3 to 5 times higher . . .



Folks, skirts are skirts. There are some that are elaborate enough to warrant vendor prices; and, you will not find those out in the wild. But, if you know what to look for, and where to look, you can buy performance worthy gems at clearance rack (“I never met a clearance rack I didn’t like!”) prices. Here is how.

Buy it to fit how you will wear it. That is, street skirts tend to be worn on the waist, and rarely fall below mid-calf; performance skirts need to fall on the hip and extend to the ankle. When buying, try them on so that the “waist” falls at your hip – look to see if the hem falls deep enough to cover the ankle and watch for “hip bumps” in the side seams. (Some skirts are shaped to curve around your hips – that doesn’t quite work when you slide them down to “below the belt.”)

Think of the possibilities. A plain black velvet skirt with a swirl panel (some call it a petal panel) shape may only look ho-hum; stick on some sequin trim along the seams and you have a bit of pizzazz! (FYI, slide the skirt over a piece of cardboard – I used my folded up cutting board. It will keep you from accidentally sewing the front to the back.)




When you get it home, try it on – with your costumes! I literally have “dress up parties” with my young daughter where we see which of Mommy’s pieces work with her new finds. And, when you buy skirts retail (vs. from dance vendors), you can often leverage a return policy.



Buy what you will ACTUALLY wear. I have a pink cotton full skirt with cute little shisha mirrors sewn on that seemed like a great idea at the time. I only wore it to class twice. I’m just not that tribal, I guess.

Harem Pant conversion

There are some things I am willing to splurge on: a well beaded bra and belt, a good silk veil, a beledi dress that is a “one-step costume.” But, harem pants do not fall on that list. Here is how I made a pair for about $6US and some tips so you can, too.

When shopping, start at a thrift store or clearance rack. (“I never met a clearance rack I did not like!”) Then:

1) Look for the for a pair of loose fitting, elastic waist pants in a material that breathes and a color that is USEFUL to your wardrobe. Washable fabrics are even better. I was very lucky and found this pair of black rayon “beach pants” for $4.99US at the local Good---- store.

2) Bring or borrow a rubber band or pony tail tie. You will need it to try the pants on.
3) Check to see that the pants are at least 5 inches longer than you need. I am lucky, because I am short; so, this happens more often than not.
4) Also, be sure that the pants have a full leg to the ankle.
5) When you try the pants on, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. This will let you see how the pants will look if you modify them. If you like the look, buy the pants; if not, keep looking.
6) There are two methods of converting these to harem pants:
a. NO SEW: When you need to wear them, slip the rubber band / pony tail tie over your foot and use it to gather up the pants leg. Betcha didn’t think it would be that easy, huh?
b. Some sewing: 1) cut a piece of elastic that is about .5 to 1 inch bigger than the circumference of your ankle. This allows room for overlap and keeps the cuff from being too tight. 2) stitch the ends of the elastic together. 3) turn the pants inside out. 4) slip the elastic band over the cuff of the pants. 5) fold the cuff of the pants over the band and stitch into place.
7) Save the money you spend for something more valuable to YOU!

Camisole conversion

If is one law about costuming, it would probably say, “You can spend money, or you can spend time.” Here is a sewing project for those of you with more of the latter.

Moderate sewing skills needed.
Estimated project time, 4 hours.
Estimated total cost: $20US

Start with one off-the-rack camisole. I found this one on a clearance rack (“I never met a clearance rack I didn’t like!”) for about $7US. This one featured an underbust seam and gathered cups, making bra conversion easy.

What it looked like when I started:



Steps for bra:
1) Carefully cut the camisole to follow a line one inch below the cups, so that you have enough fabric to fold up and under the bra line.
a. Note 1: It is better to cut further down (reducing the remaining fabric that can become your scarf or belt) than to skip on the bra. Trust me on this one.
b. Note 2: if your cami has two layers (mine was thin silk and slippery satin), it is a VERY good idea to pin or tack-stitch the layers together just below the line you will cut. This will keep them aligned when you make your skirt. Again, trust me on this one.
2) Since this cami was silk, I sewed some grosgrain ribbon along the raw edge of the fabric. (By the way, this is one way to recover if you cut too high in step one.)
3) Sew bra cups into the top if desired.
4) Fold the bottom edge of fabric up and under. Sew into place.

5) I wanted this bra top to fit tightly, so I added elastic along the back from side seam to side seam.

6) I then covered the elastic in craft felt. Any soft, non-fraying fabric that is sweat friendly will do.

7) Embellish as desired. Here, I made some tassels accented with sequins, I made some bows out of trim, and I covered the straps with the same trim.**

Steps for scarf / skirt:*
1) If you cami had two layers of fabric, align and pin or tack-stitch them together.
2) If desired, sew some grosgrain ribbon along the raw edge of the fabric.
3) Fold the top edge of the fabric over and under to make a hip band. Sew into place, adding elastic if you wish.

4) Embellish as desired.

Here is the finished product:


* You can also cover a belt if you have enough fabric and patience. I did not.
** There are those of you who will roll your eyes and say “Christmas trim, not AGAIN!” Please understand that this is not intended to be a “professional costume.” This is intended to be a costume for haflas or informal performances, made by those who are new to performing and who do have more time than money to spend on costumes.