Bra Padding 101 (with bonus strap modification!)

I am a "petite" woman, which has nothing to do with my weight and EVERYTHING to do with my frame and proportions.  Translation: all my bras need padding and my straps will do everything in their power to try and slide off of my shoulders!

I thought I would share how I cope with these things, based on a few years of experience.

First, the bra padding.

There are many schools of bra padding methodology.  Each has their pros and cons.  I go for ease of adding and subtracting padding -- because when I decide I want to sell a costume, I want to RIP the padding out and get it sellable as fast as possible.  There, I said it: I am lazy.  I have elevated lazy to an art form.  (proud smile)

One key thing that you will have to figure out on your own is padding placement.  That is, in general, you need to either pad from the bottom (pushing flesh UP) or the side (pushing flesh IN).  I need the latter; this explanation works for dancers with that figure.

I buy bra pads whenever they go on sale, and I buy them in various shapes and sizes.  (Some bras need more, or differently shaped "oomph.")  This bra is a "classical" egyptian (slightly pointy, hard shell) cup seen here. The pad that provided the right lift was a tad too big.  So, I pushed it as deep into the cup that I could, saw that it fell over the armpit slightly (see #1) and then trimmed off the corner of the teardrop so that it would sit nicely in the cup.  (Do be careful if using gel filled pads, as you need to be sure not to nick the gel pouch with the scissors!  Big Mess ensues!)

After trimming the cup, the next step (#2) is to tack the pad first at the center where the cups meet, then (#3) where the strap falls.  Next, I sew along the curve of the cup, inside by about a 1/4 to 2/5 of an inch (#4).  This is so that the padding does not peek out of the cup -- if any gapping occurs when dancing, I want the liner to show, not the pad.  Now -- let's talk about color choices:  I use black pads for dark bras and lighter for lighter bras.  A gold bra gets a "nude" (beige) pad; a silver or white bra gets a white pad.  Red, orange, pink, blue -- those colors really need the pad to be tucked under the liner fabric.  But, if the pad is close to the color of the bra, then I sew it right over the liner to save time and reduce the risk of nicking the stitches that hold beads.  (Face it, the more surgery you do to a costume, the greater the risk of cutting THE WRONG THREAD.)  I also have started using contrasting thread so that I can be sure I am cutting the correct thread, and not the wrong one.  (See lazy comment, above.)  And, I use a heavy upholstery or button thread or dental floss to reduce the risk of getting severed when randomly safety-pinning other bits to the costume.  (In my case, "lazy" means putting some small effort in one place to reduce significant efforts elsewhere.)

After ensuring the top of the pad doesn't sneak out of the cup (#4), I start forcing the pad as deep into the cup as possible, tacking at the armpit (#5), then roughly the center bottom of the cup (#6).  This is a Push and sew technique -- the pad needs to be deep into the cup to keep from gapping and peeking out the bottom or the sides.  Since the sides and bottom band of this bra fit well, I didn't need to sew the cup the rest of the way.

Repeat on the other side.

More notes: you can either pad first, then fit the back, or fit the back and then pad.  For a better, more natural fit, I strongly, strongly recommend fitting the back first.  That is, get the bra to hook around the chest so that it does not gap and stays put (does not ride up, does not pop loose) FIRST, then pad.  Too much padding causes the bra to "stand away from" (gap) the body and may cause unexpected results (boob fallout, hook popping) in performance.  Fit the bra band first, then use less padding to fill.  Test the bra by wearing it and reaching up as if to hug a tall person.  If the back stays put, you have done your job right.  (The "hug test" is also how to test turkish vests, beledi dresses, and jackets, coats, etc.)  AFTER fitting the bra band and the cup pads, adjust the straps (or, measure straps if you are making your own costume).  this is the voice of experience . . .

BONUS:  strap fixes for the narrow shouldered!

"Petite" means I have no shoulders to speak of.  Posture correction exercises help; but, I can never keep a purse strap on a shoulder, bateau neck shirts fall off my shoulders, and bra straps always head south.  I have a LOT of cross strap, halter strap, and modified halter bras as a result.  This costume, though, came with "standard" straps with a epaulet design.  So, how to get the straps to stay . . .

You know those little ribbon or clear plastic loops they sew in clothes these days?  The ones that are designed to keep the slippery things on hangers?  They tend to be attached in the armpits on shirts, or near the waist on skirts.  I cut them off and save them.  For this!

Take one of these -- I don't know what to call them -- "annoying ribbon loop things" (ARLT's), preferably in clear plastic, and experiment with pinning it to the straps to test placement.  You want it to be high on the back, but not over the shoulders, preferably so it falls under long hair or the wig, and so that there is no slack but that it is not so taught as to rick popping or cutting into the skin.  Be sure it lays flat, not twisted.  Once placement is right, tack stitch it down.

I did this on my purple and silver costume.  A friend was standing RIGHT behind me and could NOT see it.  ;)

Enjoy!

An Art Teacher Wants Your Scraps

 . .  and your stash of beads and your leftover ribbon and your extra pieces of paper and your spare sequins and . . . well, things you might throw away.

In honor of Earth Day, and because school budgets, particularly ARTS budgets are dwindling due to the recession, I have to write this post.

My daughter's art teacher knows me by name.  We email often.  Why?  Because she takes things that would be my "trash" and turns them into ingredients for treasures her students can make.  I like this arrangement because I hate throwing things away.  I would rather recycle them.  She likes this arrangement because she gets inspiring goodies that her students can use, whether it's the FOUR bags of scraps that came from cleaning my craft room, or the plastic containers that used to hold lunchmeat and can now hold craft supplies.

Costs me nothing but a few minutes.  And, when I see some pieces come home as part of art pieces, it is so worth it!

Don't have a child?  You still have an art teacher, or two.  Call your neighborhood school, daycare, or other institution of learning.

Your trash CAN become someone else's treasure.

All packed up, and ready for an art class!

Resolve to repurpose – Christmas day edition!

A friend of mine says that when she was growing up, her Japanese Mother would always make them clean the house the week between Christmas and New Years. Her thought was that whatever way you start the New Year was the way the rest of your year would go, so a clean and orderly house was in order.

Thinking about this and about New Year’s resolutions we all struggle to keep (as I start up my own end of year cleaning cycle), I wanted to share some ways you can reuse everyday household items to support your dance habits. As I started writing this, I started looking at everything differently; and, I hope you will, too! These resolutions will be EASY to keep, and may save you some money. Let’s see how many we can rack up, starting with the leftover items from today’s gifts.

1. Save the RIBBONS from Christmas presents and use them as straps (or a strap base) on a costume bra.
2. . . . or, as side bands for a bra.
3. . . . or to sew sequins, beads, rhinestones, or other embellishments onto when covering a bra.
4. . . . or, sew them along the upper band of your hip scarves to stabilize them.
5. . . . or, sew them along the upper edge dance belts to ease pinning. To do this, hold the ribbon about 1” down from the upper edge of the belt. When sewing, sew along the center line of the ribbon, allowing you to pin above or below as needed.
6. . . . or, if they complement a belt that is a little too small, use them to cover filler material that expands the belt diameter.
7. . . . or, use them for wrist bands.
8. . . . or, for arm bands.
9. . . . or, for flutters that dangle off of arm bands.
10. . . . or, for a head band.
11. . . . or, for ankle bands.
12. Save the TISSUE PAPER from today’s packages to wrap your coins scarves in; the tissue will keep them shiny.
13. . . . or, cut the tissue into small squares to use as blotting papers for glistening brows after a show.
14. . . . or, use it to cushion more delicate props, like glass candle holders.
15. Save the BOXES from today’s gifts to stow your bedlah.
16. . . . or, for storing your beaded dresses so they do not stretch.
17. . . . or, for storing your beaded skirts so they do not stretch.
18. . . . or, for storing your hipscarves.
19. And, since silica gel IS your new best friend, you know you want to save those guys to store with your costumes, right?
20. But, did you know that you could also keep silica gel to store with your FABRIC to keep it in good shape, long before it becomes a costume?

This applies to costumes, too!

A recent blog post on CNN discussed whether someone could "catch" diseases from vintage clothing. Having worked in a thrift store during college, I can attest that the most delightful items can come from questionable sources. And, environments like thrift stores pile all of the merchandise together, allowing "icky things" to spread. While the likelihood of getting sick from a costume is low, there is a slightly higher chance that you will inherit silverfish or other little critters that like to dine on fabric (as opposed to dining on you).

You may be wondering how this relates to costumes . . .

Ever bought a used one at a workshop?

Ever bought one from a vendor?

Ever bought one, period? Or, bought the parts?

The sad truth is that textiles that become costumes tend to travel a LOT. They may come from halfway around the world. They may live in someone's basement for a few years. And, they may come with "friends."

So, the advice in Dr. Gupta's blog is sound: wash it if you can, isolate the item in a plastic bag for a few weeks, and take good care of your clothes. Periodically inspect all of your costumes and the containers you store them in, looking for little visitors. Keep them in a clean, conditioned environment. And, when introducing new costumes in to the mix, quarantine them for a bit!

Took an AMAZING costuming workshop!

Folks, I just took the most wonderful costuming workshop yesterday with the lovely Christina from Black Lotus Clothing! I have to just gush -- she was informative, encouraging, clear, and so sweet! I had only seen her creations online, but you have to see them in person to truly appreciate her art. While I am admittedly not that Tribal, and not that Tribal Fusion, I found a lot of her design concepts are appropriate to all costuming needs. And, considering how much I LOVED the movie "Pretty in Pink" as a teenager, I really loved her work and her thinking.

She provided tips that universally apply: how to get inspiration, how to get to costuming quickly, how to repurpose and upcycle (my favorite), AND how to see beyond the surface when contemplating a garment at a thrift store in order to bring out the gold from the scrap hill (or, cover up the scrap hill with gold). She has only recently started teaching this workshop; but, I can assure you she is a natural teacher. She provided so much material in two hours that I need to go back and study my copious notes. I will never look at clearance rack or thrift store aisle the same way again -- and, I will NOT be afraid to rip rather than cut, to throw everything in a pile and see what works, to stand in front of a mirror and fit a garment that is hanging on me! She is fast and loose, full of infectious creative energy, and definitely someone that can inspire! If she is in your area (or, if you are close to her), you OWE it to yourself to study with her!

Basic Bedlah / Beledi Dress Storage

Your costume is an investment – normally, several hundred dollars (in $US, at least). Here are a few basic tips to help protect that investment:

1) Store them flat – do not hang. Beads have weight, and weight stretches fabrics. A dress that fits perfectly when you buy it can mysteriously grow 3 inches while hanging. Unless you really enjoy altering beaded hems, don’t hang it.
2) Store them in a protective environment – ideally, an acid free box. My personal preference is an acid free photo box. I am lucky in that I am small busted, so a photo box that sells for about $3.50US (on sale) can hold at least one half (top or bottom) of a bedlah; some beledi dresses fit in there as well. Larger boxes can be had at higher prices.
a. Why acid free? Acid eats fabric. ‘nuff said?
b. How do I fold them? Let the shape of your costume guide you: fold the belt to follow the curves of your hips. Gently place them in (fringe first), then ease the rest of the belt in.
c. How big of a box do I need? I base it on my bras – the box should be wide enough that my bra can easily fit with the cups up (i.e. the box needs to be about as wide as your shoulders.
d. They don’t make boxes big enough – what do I do?!? (AND) I really don’t want to spend money – what are my other options? Men’s shoe boxes and boot boxes (men’s or women’s) are a wonderful, larger, and often free alternative.
3) Throw in a little extra insurance – remember, Silica Gel is your new best friend!
4) Take the container with you when you perform. I tuck mine in a bag along with my change of clothes. This allows me to tuck my costume away in its protective shell after I do my quick change, protecting the beads and sequins from the ravages of transport. And, I keep a small zip-top bag in the box to hold jewelry. (Learned that one when a necklace “married” the fringe of a bra after one show.) Just remember to let your costume air a bit before tucking away for long-term storage.

Silica Gel is your new Best Friend

You have probably thrown away thousands of these little packs in your life; but you may never want to do that again. They come in boxes of shoes, with furniture, in new purses, even in medicines and some foods. And, their purpose is to KEEP THINGS DRY.

As a dancer, you have costumes and accessories that you want to protect from sweat, humidity, errant water bottles, etc. If you were to tuck one of these little marvels in the box where you store your bedlah (because, yes, you want to store it in a box – look for a future post on that topic), then it will silently protect your beautiful and expensive costume from damage. And, if you were to be sure you took a large one along when you perform, you can make those quick costume changes and just stow the costume with the packet (for a few hours at least) without worrying about damage from perspiration. My family is now trained to save every one they find, so that all of my costumes can be protected. I even keep one in my dance bag that I take to class – because ballet shoes can harbor moisture that can damage veils and hip scarves, too.

So, only follow half of the directions on the packet. “Do NOT EAT!” But, please do not throw them away!