Sunday, July 17, 2011

Draped Coin Bra Cover 101

How fast can I type this? I have only been meaning to give you this post FOR A YEAR!!!

sigh. (lot of that today)

Say you need a coin bra costume for a show, like I did about this time last year. And, say, you are frugal and willing to sew. Well, maybe more on the frugal side. Here is what you do:

1. Make a basic black bra base, extra sturdy. Cups that have a point where the strap meets the cup are best for drapes. Rounded cups with no points will require that you do surgery on the drape. You will need a bra base that can support the weight of the coins, which will pull heavily down the cups. This is no time for halters, ladies! You need think, strong straps here that will distribute the weight -- crossed in the back are best.
2. Take the base to a reputable dealer and look for a "coin bra drape." These will look oddly triangular when hanging, and you will need to arrange them over the base to ensure a good fit. These are NOT one size fits all. Take some binder clips, safety pins, and an extra set of hands to help you hold up the drape and see how it fits over THAT base, not the everyday bra you are wearing. The drape needs to be able to cover the cups, flex to hang so that the top edge follows the edges of the cups, and still cover all the way down to the bottom edge of the bra. You can make a *slightly* big drape fit perfectly, but you cannot stretch one that is too small.
3. Buy the matching coin belt at the same time. Trust me, you will regret it if you don't. You will never be able to match it later!
4. At home, make sure you have at least 100 safety pins. Go buy more if you don't. And, pliers.
5. Before you begin draping, look over your drape carefully. Use the pliers to tighten any loose jump rings. You will use the pliers again later in the fitting.
6. Place the bra base on a work surface, cups up and facing you. Use the safety pins to secure the drape to the upper edge, starting at the upper triangular point of the drape cup, pinning that to the upper point of the bra base. Do both points first. Work your way down each side to the center where the cups meet, one pin on each side at one time. You will have to finagle it a little to get it even.


Front View:

Back View (ignore safety pins under the armpits for now:

7. Try it on. Adjust drape. Repeat until happy.
8. Start pinning the top of the drape along the cups under the armpits.
9. Try it on. Adjust drape. Repeat until happy. This part took the longest for me, as the drape may need surgery (told you about the pliers!) to fit properly. And, at some point you will need to use the pliers to cut the chains off of the drape. You can decide whether to run some chain along the straps or just keep it bare. Your bra, your aesthetic. I have draped them both ways; and, since I am a cabaret dancer, I hate a nekkid bra back. So, I either have to drape the chains, too, or wear a vest over it.
10. Commence sewing! This is easy, really. If you have draped and pinned properly, you only need to sew to attach the top of the drape to the top of the base. Find the "chain" that runs along the top of the drape, making the shape of the drape. You will sew this to the base in strong stitches that have some give to them -- you want the coins to move! Use HEAVY thread (upholstery, button hole) to make a stitch that attaches the drape chain to the upper edge of the cup. This is the only sewing your will do, running a seam that starts at the points of the bra cup where it meets the strap to the center. Repeat on the other side, then along the cups under the armpits. When sewing, only do one or two stitches at a time and knot in between (coins cut thread). Stop and fit, adjust as needed. At the risk of repeating myself, DO NOT sew the drape completely to the bra, do not sew the bottom edge. Too much sewing or too-tight stitches will restrict coin movement and ruin the bra.

I made my base out of scraps and got my coin drape for about $30 USD. Belt ran about $30 as well. So, with only minor cussing and $70, I got a set I could have paid $100 and up for. Time well spent, so to say.

Finished product:


Enjoy!

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